Being a boss is hard, but is somehow easier when you're managing very junior employees. Things get complicated when both boss and employee get quite senior. Who should do what for whom? I've had a long succession of bosses who are pleasant, but don't know much more than me and can't teach me much, so have just let me get on with things. This is a vast improvement on people who don't know much more than me but meddle and micro-manage; I've had those, too. But the Holy Grail of senior-level bosses is someone who has a light touch, but gives you clear insight when you need it, clears blockages from your path and has a lot to teach you.
I haven't had that kind of boss since leaving Dallas eight years ago. Then I got lucky in June. Then unlucky in October, when she announced her pregnancy. Today was her leaving lunch. Thanks to generous European leave policies, she'll now be gone for longer than she's been my boss. And I'm on to boss no. 7 in my five years with my current company. (To be fair, he shows great promise.)
My depression at my current boss' departure was assuaged somewhat by a lovely send-off
lunch today at Orrery on Marylebone High Street. This is, I think, one of the better "occasion" restaurants in London. The bright, airy atmosphere with big windows overlooking an 18th century churchyard provides a comfortable venue, big enough to generate a bit of buzz but not so crowded that you can't hear each other. We had a large, round table at the back of the long, narrow room (a gallery, really) and filled it with a bunch of witty and amusing female colleagues. A delightful time, marred only by the fact that we're a diligent bunch and were all scurrying back to the office by 2.Orrery is probably the best in the stable of Conran-owned restaurants, and actually sits above the Conran shop at the top of Marylebone High Street. Ten years ago Conran seemed to dominate the culinary Top 10 list. These days he's ceded his restaurant kingship to Gordon Ramsey, but Orrery is certainly worthy of a slot on anyone's list of best spots for business lunches.
As with so much of top cuisine in London, the menu and most of the serving staff are resolutely French. But it's presented with a light touch in style, architecture and density of dishes. Eating here is a treat, but doesn't have to feel as "worthy" as some of the bigger names.
Nor does it have to be as expensive. Orrery does a great set price menu: Three courses for £30. For a quality restaurant in London, this is a steal ... and priced well below their a la carte menu. Going set menu doesn't mean you skimp on options, with an amuse bouche of chickpea mousse followed by three possibilities for each course. I was feeling resolutely autumnal and went for the game terrine followed by pigeon. The other main course options, beef or sea bass, also looked excellent.
In addition to its cozy Marylebone High Street location, Orrery is probably best known for its cheese board. It is the best I've had in London, with a staggering variety and a cheese steward who can guide you through it with deft expertise. As a goat cheese fan, I let him make me up a plate from their 15 different varieties. The selection is presented in a circle, moving from mildest flavour to strongest, with clear explanations about each cheese's name and region of origin. I defy anyone to remember their list, but it's very impressive at the time.
Thus ended a fitting celebration in an above average restaurant for an above average boss. Here's hoping she finds childbirth as painless and easy as today's service, and she comes back at the appointed time to re-join our merry team.
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