Kenilworth Ranks as One of Britain's Best Castles

Warwickshire is a county rich in historic sights. Between the Shakespearean theme park of Stratford and the Disney production values at Warwick castle, lesser sights are often left behind. Kenilworth Castle falls into this overlooked category, though it would get top billing in many less abundant counties.

Kenilworth is a magnificently picturesque ruin, surrounded by open countryside and a row of picturesque cottages, just outside the modern town of Kenilworth (mid-way between Warwick and Birmingham). Though built over more than four centuries, each owner expanded in the same remarkable stone, meaning that today you see a burgundy red ruin sitting amongst emerald green lawns. Under blue skies, it's almost too colourful to bear.

The castle is steeped in history. Simon de Montfort, brother-in-law to Henry III and considered the father of parliament, lived here. After that came John of Gaunt, whose ruined buildings here are actually the only late-gothic royal palace to remain in England. The star resident, however, was Robert Dudley, Earl of Leicester. He was Elizabeth I's favourite; life-long friend, rumoured lover. He turned Kenilworth into one of the grandest houses in central England and the queen came here to be entertained on many occasions. The grandeur of the remaining ruins makes it clear what a potent stage set this must have been. Sir Walter Scott's novel "Kenilworth" is set here. It's worth ploughing through the old fashioned prose to get a taste of the drama of the places.

Queen Elizabeth did indeed sleep here, though history remains undecided on whether she actually slept with the owner.

English Heritage owns and maintains the property and, as with many of their locations, you can get a great audio tour to take you around the places and paint pictures for you of what was once there. You can clamber up winding stares and perch on deep window embrasures overlooking peaceful rural scenes. There's also an excellent exhibit on Elizabeth and Leicester (who, sadly, looked nothing like Joseph Fiennes, who played him in a recent film.)

One of the best things about Kenilworth, however, is how pleasant the surrounding countryside is. While I'd always recommend getting up close and personal with your historic attractions, the truth is that your views and experience are almost as good skipping the admission fee and just walking around the outside. There are banks of hills on the side of the castle by the main road that make for fantastic picnic spots (though you can also take picnics inside the castle). There are hiking trails all around the site, cutting through fields blooming with wildflowers and inevitably looping back to the local village and its picturesque pub.

Kenilworth really is a sight that sooths the soul, and it's well worth a detour from the proven tourist track.