Random highlights from the Lake District

If I had more of a head for numbers, I might accurately remember the statistic I recently heard on the percentage of the main island of Britain that is technically considered mountain. It was a shockingly high figure ... something between a quarter and a third. You just don't tend to think of Britain as a mountainous place. Perhaps because the mountains are less visited than the rest of the country, perhaps because our mountains are gentle, ancient and on the small side. But we are, technically, a mountain nation, and those mountains provide some spectacular sightseeing.

A school friend is heading to the Lake District for the first time this autumn. As it's a slow week in the Ferrara diary, I thought I'd fill in with an entry on my top tips for sightseeing that bit of mountain Britain.

There's no doubt that this is one of the most beautiful places on earth. Rocky, heather-covered mountains dotted with sheep, a lake in every valley, picturesque villages, expansive views. This is hiking country: Many people take the train in, book into a hotel for a week and hike up a different hill every day. I can't claim such a physical experience. Though I've been to the Lake District at least five times, all my visits have either been too brief for long walks or with parents who weren't up to vigorous climbs. So I'll refer you to other guides for the best tips for walks. Here are my favourites when visiting.

1. Just drive around. You don't need to do anything to extract joy from this area but meander down any road. Take a picnic. Pull into lay bys. Take a little meander. Take lots of photos. No need to plan, every path affords a view.
2. Castlerigg Stone Circle. One of the most impressively sited monuments in Britain, this small but fairly complete stone circle stands in a field on a hilltop above Keswick. The mountains stretch away before you, often shrouded in mist. Out of season, you're often up there alone. Dramatic, marvelous, a bit creepy. Don't miss it.

3. Kwelas Restaurant, Windermere. Most food in the Lake District falls into one of two categories: hearty pub food for a the walkers and upscale continental dining for the luxury weekenders. Which makes this African restaurant a very pleasant surprise and a great change of pace. The menu runs from North African (tagines, cous cous) to South (bobotie, ostrich steak, great wine). Minimalist but comfortable surroundings, good service and, as I recall, quite reasonable.

4. Sarah Nelson's Gingerbread. How amazing to find a local culinary specialty that hasn't sold out to big business. Every slice of this pungent, crumbly treat is actually baked in the ovens of the tiny cottage in the churchyard in Grasmere. You can only get the gingerbread here, or by mail order direct from them, and it's unlike any other recipe I've ever tasted. You'll stop in Grasmere anyway to see Wordsworth's grave and cottage (everyone does). So go ahead, treat yourself. And I suggest you buy multiple packages, because the first one will be empty long before you leave town.

5. The Langdale Chase Hotel. I've yet to stay at a moderately priced B&B here worth writing about. All acceptable, but unextraordinary. The one time I went upscale, however, I struck it lucky. The Langdale Chase is a massive, late-Victorian country house sitting right on the banks of Windermere, with marvellous terraced gardens running down to the water and the boathouse. The interiors of the public rooms are in the grand "Tudorbethan" style with lots of wonderful carving, panelling and oriental rugs. Massive bay windows take in the view and, if you're visiting in the winter, you'll be treated to roaring log fires. The bedrooms are a bit pokey (probably why the place only has 3 stars) but who cares? You're here for the public spaces. If you don't want to invest in spending the night, you can enjoy the grounds and the view by dropping by for afternoon tea.
6. Lakeland. Probably not for Americans, who have better retail therapy than us. But in the UK, Lakeland's treasure trove of kitchen gadgets, storage options and household gizmos and solutions is unique. It's the kind of store you enter not needing anything, and walk out with a bag brimming with stuff you don't know how you lived without. (My latest example: a wonderful garlic press that works without the need to peel the clove.) Whilst the mail order giant is now opening outlets across the UK, the mother store is bigger and more fun.
7. Hardknott Pass and Roman Fort. If you doubt these are really mountains, head up Hardknott Pass. A recent BBC show said this was the most dangerous, nerve-wracking drive in the country. I don't remember being that stressed as I took the procession of hairpin turns up the narrow blacktop track lacking verges and rarely wide enough for cars to pass, but my mother's knuckles were white and she didn't breathe for long periods. If you can brave the road, and keep your eyes off the remarkable scenery until you get to the top, you will be richly rewarded. Views are expansive and breath taking. The Roman fort is a bonus,completely excavated and well interpreted, so you can see where the main roads, commander's house and baths were. And pity the poor sods who got posted up here. I imagine the drama of the view would have faded quickly in light of the weather and the loneliness. As you get to go home at the end of the day, you can revel in the view without pain.