Thursday, 16 August 2007

A night of surprises in Camden

Camden, a bustling area just north of central London, divides opinion. Some people find it one of the most exciting parts of the city: edgy, interesting, modern, colourful. Others (yes, including me) find its hotch potch of tattoo and piercing parlours, leather accessory shops, new wave emporia, goth pubs and down-at-heel mini marts to be ugly at best, and magnet for dangerous and unpleasant people at worst. I fired a PR agency with offices here two years ago (for performance, not location) and breathed a sigh of relief that I would never have to wander into Camden again.

But circumstances intervened. I was shopping for something nice to do with my team at work, and we hit upon a boat ride through the Regent's Park canal system. The boats leave from Camden Dock. Once there, I figured I might as well find us a restaurant nearby.

The weather wasn't ideal: about 60 degrees, overcast and windy. But everyone had travelled to London and we'd committed to an outing, so we headed to the docks. To find that it was so windy that the old fashioned canal boat we'd hired to take us out couldn't leave its berth. Its engine wouldn't be strong enough to keep it stable. The company manager suggested we take over the front of their commercial vessel and take the regularly-scheduled ride. We could still unpack our jug of Pimm's and sit together, we'd just have to deal with other passengers in the back. And then, miracle of miracles, she gave me my cheque back and said our ride was on the house. Their main boat was going anyway, we were there, why not? Yes, this is logical, but this level of customer service is almost unknown in Britain.

Whether or not my description of Camden appeals, do consider a boat ride with the LONDON WATERBUS COMPANY, my customer service stars of the year.

The ride itself is lovely. Once you clear the grotty, slightly industrial feel of Camden you're gliding through Regent's Park itself; first the zoo, then past ridiculously expensive villas. You end up in Little Venice, the canal lined with pricey houseboats and the streets above a parade of pristine white Regency townhouses. There, you turn around and head back, making it a two hour cruise in all.

After a brief stop in a pub to get warm and keep out of the rain, we headed to The Mango Room, 10-12 Kentish Town Road. I knew nothing about the place but what I'd read from internet reviews. It was near the lock, moderately priced and Caribbean. The last seemed a good antidote to the weather. Maybe the food would make us feel like it was summer holidays, even if the atmosphere was not participating.

The Mango Room is a real find. The atmosphere was far more sophisticated than I expected from Camden. Once you're through the doors you find linen covered tables, tasteful flower arrangements, a bold space of stripped brick walls hung with vivid Caribbean art. The anticipated Reggae music was playing, but not too loudly, and the tables were filled not with pierced Camden goths but with 30- and 40-something professional types who looked like us. Clearly, there's more to Camden that the freak show of its high street.

The food was excellent, though not for the faint of palate. They don't go light on their spices here. The menu included expected classics, like salt cod fritters and jerked chicken, but also carried a fine range of fish done simply in various spices. I started with a fish soup, abundant with a variety of seafood and the spice to bring it all to life. Then, despite all the lovely fish on the menu, I moved on to the dish the restaurant is famous for: curried goat. Once again, a remarkably spicy dish, with the spices eliminating any gamey flavour in the meat, leaving you with a deeply satisfying stew. Ironically, I realised this was exactly the kind of food I wanted, but never saw, on my Caribbean cruise in January.

The desert menu was a bit disappointing, but probably only because I'm so conditioned to want key lime pie after this kind of cuisine, and they didn't do it. There are some good options here, though, including cinnamon ice cream, mango and passion fruit cream brulee and roasted bananas.

Mango Room is great value for money. You can get out of here for £20-£30 per person before alcohol, and the wine list has some excellent options for under £15. And it's just across the street from the tube station, so if you're a Camden phobic you hardly have to feel like you're there. However, with fine food and excellent customer service, Camden may be growing on me.

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