This was a surprise. Hawai'i, in my mind's eye, was all about the natural world. Volcanic landscapes, dramatic beaches, exotic flowers, whales, a Polynesian culture at peace with the environment. A big city seemed like an intrusion on this paradise. An economic necessity, perhaps, but an irritating distraction from what I'd come to see.
Time to eat my straw hat. Honolulu was one of the highlights of the trip. It's cool and sophisticated. A cosmopolitan capital of the Pacific Rim with people as friendly as a Midwestern small town. Worthy of far more exploration, though my pedometer ... ending the day showing 14.5 miles ... says I did pretty well for a 14-hour window of opportunity.
I started in the government district, reached through gracious pedestrian malls, attractive mid-sized modern office buildings and the occasional architectural remnant from the first half of the 20th century. All were in great shape and beautified by local flora; in fact, Honolulu probably ranks as the cleanest city I've ever visited. My destination was an expansive patch of green lawns dotted with 19th century architecture. Most impressive are a couple of palaces, a Gothic revival mausoleum and a Victorian bandstand, leaving no doubt that the Hawaiian monarchy was aping their European fellows. Don't miss the famous statue of King Kamehameha and the less known, but more poignant, bronze of Queen Liliʻuokalani, who lost her independent kingdom to American annexation despite her best efforts. The latter sits beside the State Capitol building, a jarring block of 1960s cement architecture that is saved from being hideous by its green and pleasant surroundings. Also in this quarter is one of the original 19th century mission churches and its outbuildings, a gracious merchant's house of the late monarchy and other grand monuments and government buildings, all separated from each other by lawns and flowering trees. Truly, a lovely place for a ramble.
Next it was on to Chinatown. Architecturally, its range of two- and three-story brick buildings could have been any business district in small town America, except that the shop fronts were filled with the assortment of exotic fruit and veg, designer copies and Oriental clothes and art typical of Chinatowns around the world. This one, however, seemed a bit more authentic to me than Chicago or London, perhaps because of the unusual offerings at the smoothie stand. A wide range of tropical fruits included Durian, of which I'd read much but never tasted. (As reported elsewhere, smells vile. Tastes creamy and slightly of vanilla.) And all smoothies were served over pearls of tapioca, ball bearing-sized black spheres that came up your straw and added a chewy, substantial element to your drink. The most unique thing about this Chinatown, however, is the profusion of florists, all of them making and selling traditional leis. There's an impressive range of both flowers and techniques on display and the prices are far below anything on sale near the ship. A necklace of the ubiquitous, sweet-smelling plumeria cost just $3.50, stretching up to $20 for a string of exotic orchids sliced and woven into a dense chain of colour. (This more expensive lei lasted a full week, allowing my mother to proudly wear it off the ship in LA before it collapsed.)
Just beyond Chinatown, in an area of light industry near the docks, is one of the two Honolulu outposts of Hilo Hatties; this one the super-sized corporate HQ. (There are free shuttles from the cruise port, but if you're in China town you're half way there.) A chain found on all four major islands, Hatties made its name with a wide range of tropic wear. It's better looking and of higher quality than most of what you see in other shops, making purchases here things you'll actually wear when you get home. Beyond the clothes, there's a treasure trove of souvenirs, food products (an especially good range of Hawaiian coffees and candies), perfumes and cosmetics made from local flowers (I am already anticipating the need to order more plumeria perfume and body lotion from their web site), homeware, CDs and videos. It's a great bet if you're trying to get all your vacation shopping done in one hit.
A mid-day break saw me wandering around Aloha Tower Market, an upscale, open-air shopping mall right next to the cruise ship port. Its eponymous central landmark was the tallest in Hawaii on its construction. Today it welcomes ships and reminds tourists of the art deco glamour of an earlier age. The mall at its base is a tasteful mix of boutiques and restaurants, decorated with tropical vegetation and a series of life-sized bronze sculptures of hula dancers that might inspire you to dance.
Most of the tourist buses leave from here, as do city buses. Quite helpfully, these are fitted out with ramps and securing straps for disability vehicles, meaning my mother was as free to explore town as anyone else. We took the bus up to Waikiki beach, enjoying the view of shopping malls, parks, beaches and apartment buildings on the way there.
The area
around Waikiki was a surprise, although this one not so pleasant. I'd pictured something restrained, beautiful, quiet. Hardly. One block back from the main strip is a booming shopping street filled with every high-end shop and chain restaurant typical of well-heeled districts around the world. Hotels are monster megaplexes and high rises. The strip itself is a busy road with the beach on one side and a buzzing collection of hotels, restaurants and lower-end shops on the other. And everywhere, crowds. The only thing soothing about Waikiki is the view once you walk to the water and look up the coast, taking in the curve of sand and the jungle-clad bulk of Diamond Head. You're unlikely to relax on the beach itself, which is heaving with bodies. Not even a swim can calm you down, because the water is both chilly and perfect for surfing (meaning big, constant breakers). This place is a colourful show of surfers, strolling tourists, shoppers and sun seekers. It's fun, but in my mind it's an urban promenade with a seascape to one side, not a proper beach set up for a lounge, a swim and quiet hours tucked into a good paperback.Still, overall ... Honolulu shone. While it's famous sands are nowhere near my list of favourite beaches, it's certainly in my top five when it comes to ocean-front cities.
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