Despite news coverage of crowds ignoring social distancing guidelines, we found sparsely populated tourist attractions and rigorously enforced safety measures. All National Trust properties require booking ahead for a limited number of slots, which requires ruthless advanced organisation; tickets for the following 10 days come online around 12:30 am on Fridays and are generally sold out by 9am. But your efforts are rewarded by easy availability of parking, people-free vistas and spots for quiet contemplation. Pubs are operating more like restaurants. You’re met at the door, shown to one of a restricted numbers of tables in operation, encouraged not to move from there if you can help it and directed to order and pay online. Leave out the back door to keep things a one way system. It might lack charm, but the delight of sitting in a historic pub that’s quiet and not overcrowded, is a rare joy.
Later at the hotel, limited numbers meant the bar/lobby area never got above a gentle buzz, every “household” got its own cluster of sofas and armchairs and service (masked, naturally) was prompt. The dining room featured Perspex screens between every table, creating barriers without removing light. Staff everywhere was cheerful and attentive, delighted to be back in business and supporting a fraction of the people they’d normally serve. It was a tourist’s dream. But is undoubtably still a nightmare for the hospitality industry, as I can’t see any way that anyone we visited over the weekend could be breaking even with the reduced custom.
I’m enjoying the quiet, but hope it’s a short-term blip or many of these places won’t survive to welcome us when the virus runs its course. Meanwhile, if you’re looking for “staycation” options, I recommend the Isle of Purbeck heartily.
The anchor of this outing was The Pines Hotel in Swanage. We stayed for just one night, allowing us to enjoy the short road trip (about two hours from our house) without making a single long a day of it. The hotel is at the end of a lane to the East of the town centre, making it the last building before property gives way to a protected landscape. Thus it’s blessed with magnificent views, gives easy access to some striking walks and allows forays into town without sitting in the hustle and bustle of seaside holiday makers. Best of all it has a private staircase down the cliffs to the beach, roughly the equivalent of four stories below. Between Covid and the lack of easy public access, the stretch of sand here was almost completely empty. We couldn’t linger, but if I had it to do again we’d stay two nights, have lawn chairs in the car and sit on the beach for the day.
The Pine’s architecture will win no charm awards (I’m guessing an Edwardian core with an inter-war addition) but our first-floor room was large and had the advantage of sliding doors leading out onto the lawn edging the cliffs. The supreme convenience when travelling with dogs. We ate in the restaurant. It was fairly simple fare plated with some fine dining tricks to add a big city look. Almost the definition of provincial but, frankly, all the sophistication I needed. The homey touch of the staff and their tangible joy at being back at work warmed my heart.
Swanage lies at the end of the Isle of Purbeck, which is geographically a peninsula but may deserve its “isle” moniker for how separate it feels from the rest of the country. With its deep lanes, thatch-laden villages, expansive views and old-fashioned feel, Purbeck is strongly reminiscent of the Isle of Wight, which you can see just off its tip. (See May and June of last year for articles about holidaying on Wight.) While mostly agricultural, Purbeck has long been famed for the quality of its limestone, which has been shipped North to build many a Palladian country house and government building, but also contributes to a pleasing uniformity of pale grey stone architecture across the peninsula.
The historic heart of the area is Corfe Castle, a natural crossroads between deep hills that’s been fortified and inhabited since Roman times. Today it’s one of the most picturesque villages in England, with a massive ruined castle standing above a picture-book village built from matching stone. Much of it salvaged from the castle after its destruction in the 17th century Civil War. Dramatic events unfolded here, from the murder of the Saxon King Edward (who became “the Martyr”) to the spirited defence of the castle by Lady Mary Bankes, an English heroine who deserves wider renown. The property is now managed by the National Trust and there are useful signboards and listening stations throughout that tell the story.
On our return journey the next day we wandered around Kingston Lacy, the area’s most impressive stately home and a logical extension to a Corfe Castle visit. Despite Lady Bankes’ defence, Corfe Castle eventually fell to Parliamentary troops and was “slighted” (purposely destroyed with massive explosions) to prevent it from being re-fortified. The family managed to hold on to most of their surrounding land, however, so when the king was restored they were able to celebrate by building this new, modern home. There aren’t that many Carolingian homes around (compared to the abundant Georgian selection) so its novelty is a treat for architecture buffs. Interiors still aren’t open but if they had been, we would have seen the original keys to Corfe Castle, plus a blockbuster art collection and a memorable room “papered” in embossed and gilt leather.
It’s been at least 15 years since I’ve wandered the Isle of Purbeck. It’s possible that, without a pandemic, it’s as crowded as other tourist hot spots. But I doubt it. The COVID crisis is reminding me that there are wonderful escapes very close to home. Get exploring!
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