Never have I been so relieved to accuse someone of false advertising.
The Inn at the Spanish Steps' website has some beguiling photos. You'll be positive that it's the building on the very corner of Via Condotti and the Piazza di Spagna. Tempted by the idea that you'll be throwing open your curtains to take in the magnificent sweep of the Spanish Steps with the lovely church and convent of Trinita dei Monti at their head. You may also pause for a moment to worry: will it be very noisy? That is, after all, one of the most popular spots in Rome.
That worry grew exponentially as I walked into the piazza for the first time in a decade. Crowded, boisterous, noisy. Suddenly, the idea of overlooking these swarming masses seemed like a very bad one.
I needn't have worried. The real magic of the Inn at the Spanish Steps is something well-hidden in their marketing materials: they're actually about 100 yards down the Via Condotti from the piazza. (The door is the round, narrow arch about a third of the way in from the left of the photo above.) Most of their rooms overlook deep, functional courtyards sandwiched behind the 19th century palazzos that make up this neighbourhood. It's not the view you thought you were going to have, but it is blissfully quiet. Impossibly quiet, you'd say, as you turn in from the packed rumble of the street.
This luxurious boutique hotel has a deceptively low-key entrance, beckoning you down a long, white marble hallway to climb up some stairs, pause on a landing, then go down into the office and reception area. You're in a room that was probably once a cellar and, though there's some grand old furniture, there are only two chairs. This is obviously a functional business space, not a lounge. You won't be impressed at this point. But don't trust your first impressions. Everything improves dramatically above the humble ground floor.
The style throughout is grand, classic 19th century Italian. Keats and Shelly (who lived a stone's throw away) would right at home. Think jewel tones, striped wallpaper, dark wooden furniture, painted ceilings and heavy curtains. The building was obviously once divided into grand apartments, accessed by a palatial staircase. Despite the old world look, you'll find all the modern comforts in your room. The mattresses are good, the linens substantial, you can programme the heat and air conditioning and the flat screen TV comes with Sky and a variety of English-language stations. We'd upgraded to a superior room, with a bit more space and a balcony. Without the anticipated view, of course, but it added light and depth to the room.
The higher you climb, the better things get. The Inn's crowning glory is its rooftop lounge and garden. Breakfast is laid here every morning, and there's an early evening buffet (complimentary) with a full bar (first one on the house, then you're on your own). The views are wonderful, thanks to the Roman habit of taking their roof gardens very seriously. You'll get a different perspective on the city, as you peer onto the other rooftops through the Inn's framing lemon and olive trees. It can be a bit challenging in inclement weather, as there's not nearly enough indoor space for all the people staying here. Fortunately, even in the depths of February on a weekend forecast for rain, the weather was good enough for us to have breakfast outside on several days.
We booked the Inn through British Airways, where the deal we got along with our airfare made this very competitive. Centrally located yet quiet, charming, and with a friendly staff who anticipated every need. I can recommend this place without hesitation. Just don't expect the same views as you're promised on the web site.
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