Brown's Hotel serves up traditional Britain with a modern twist

I had drinks and dinner this week at Brown's Hotel after a long absence.

When I worked at a PR agency I entertained clients here regularly. I appreciated that most Americans want to dip their toes into the traditional elegance they associate with Britain. High tea at Brown's always accomplished that, fusing history, tasty treats and tourist delight with a quiet, dignified place in which to have long conversations.

I hadn't crossed the threshold of Brown's since. I had no reason to avoid it, nor had I any particular motivation to go. On Wednesday I was invited to join two other marketing executives for a delightful evening of industry insight, entertaining stories and a bit of gossip. The venue still serves up exactly what it used to: Fine service, traditional food with some modern twists and a great place to talk.

We started the evening in the Donovan Bar, an elegant space with marvellously attentive waiters. It's nice to find someplace that's both fashionable and quiet; this is a great place to catch up with people without having to shout over pounding music. (Yes, I'm sounding old. But I wanted to talk, not dance.) There's muted live music some evenings, and extremely comfortable chairs and banquettes that encourage you to settle in for hours. We didn't linger too long, however, as dinner called from The Grill.

The dining room is a good reflection of the menu: Traditional high Victorian room with all its architecture in place, accented by modern art and furniture that enhanced, rather than brashly clashed with, the history. The tables are well-spaced, so you can have a proper conversation without feeling part of the next table, and the overall noise level in the room stays at a gentle hum.

The menu is classic "best of British", with lots of roasts, grills, local and seasonal ingredients. Though simple and traditional, light touches brought the dishes into the 21st century. Two of us, for example, opted for the scallops. Six whole scallops, served on a circle of their half shells, braised in butter and the highly trendy, seasonal wild garlic. Simple, but beautiful. Tom Aikens could learn a few things here.

The a la carte vegetables were obviously fresh, and cooked just enough to bring out their flavour. My one criticism: They could have used less butter and let more of the natural taste sing through. My starter of mixed greens, beetroot and goat's cheese was also excellent. We shared a platter of well aged and well selected cheese to end the meal. Which, of course, demanded a lovely little glass of tawny port.

All this fine food, wine and conversation proved a counterpoint to a nerve-wracking week, and will undoubtedly stand as its best highlight when I get to Friday evening. Although the delivery of my new refrigerator will give it some competition. But that's another story...