Proof of recession? I just had a cheap dinner in New York City.

There I was again in New York, the city that keeps trying to grow on me. I notice the treeless canyons less and the architecture more. My ever-growing circle of friends is so lovely, they overshadow the aggressive nastiness of the natives. And I'm never there long enough to be off London time so I ... never a morning person ... am up and taking my morning walk at 6am when the city, to my eyes, is at its best.

This was a mostly-manic business trip, with few moments available for personal time. Thanks to those early mornings, I managed to carve out a few fine rambles. This included a particularly lovely walk up Fifth Avenue (no time for shopping, but I could check out the windows) and a loop through the edge of Central Park. I grabbed breakfast with a dear Northwestern classmate in a classic, if unremarkable, little diner. Dinner on my first night, between arrival and crashing from jet lag, was with a sorority sister I hadn't seen for 18 years. No food could have bettered the joy of that reunion, but the Brazilian place on restaurant row did a mean tilapia fillet.

There was only one other night for dinner out, organised by the colleague I was catching up with. And what I fine choice she made.

Vong's. 200 East 54th Street. Sophisticated, French-influenced Asian food in elegant surroundings. Four course tasting menu for a remarkable $35. (My coffee and bagel in the hotel for breakfast didn't cost that much less.) Need I say more? Perhaps just a few words...

For that price in the Big Apple I was expecting un-remarkable, and mass produced. What came out of the kitchen was delicate, carefully prepared and of top quality. I started with the peekytoe crab spring rolls, which were definitely a step up from your usual Thai restaurant mass produced items. Next up, wild striped bass on top of some wok-fried cabbage. The sinus-draining spices here weren't for the faint of heart, but I was feeling both satisfied and quite virtuous by the last bite; a healthy dish I'd love to re-create at home. On to roasted lemon grass chicken, also on the spicy side, served over green beans. Then all the good health and virtue went out the window as the dessert arrived. The trio of individual sweets was the kind of thing I've paid top price for in other restaurants. Having it thrown in at the end of a reasonably priced tasting menu was truly amazing.

Here is a recession-friendly place. Accountants will have no problem signing off a relatively modest expense request, while diners will get tastes and experiences worth a bigger price tag. Next time I'm in New York ... especially if I'm there on my own money ... Vong's will be top of my return list.