L'Ortolan, Barbecoa prove their worth through consistency

Amongst the many advantages of our recent house move comes the fact that we're just 10 miles from an excellent Michelin-starred restaurant.  Dangerous, too.  We've been in the house five months, and I've been to L'Ortolan three times.  Is it a sign of good taste, or of severe fiscal irresponsibility, when the sommelier of one of the county's most expensive restaurants knows your name?

The excuse this time was a girls' weekend.  Cheaper than our traditional winter weekend away, we thought.  We'll stay at my place (Piers was scheduled to be away) and do one of those "staycations". 

We started with me whipping up dinner based around those ridiculously expensive dried morels the girls witnessed me buying in Madrid.  Slow-roasted caponata to start, followed by veal-stuffed ravioli in a morel and marsala cream sauce.  Hillary and Lisa bringing some particularly fine wines, of course.  Followed by lemon souffle and a tasty little bottle of Tokai.  My simple nights in have certainly evolved over the years.

Off to Nirvana Spa the next morning to soak out all the toxins.  And then on to L'Ortolan to convince the girls that there is fine dining in Reading.  Shocking, but true.

Executive Chef Alan Murchison clearly runs a tight ship, as this experience was just as good as the first three.  No chefs dropping by the table to chat, as in Malta, sadly, though the sommelier made up for that with amusing commentary through the dazzling wine flight.  We opted for the seven course menu, plus cheese course, rather than the 10 (there is no a la carte on weekend evenings).  Highlights included some delicate ham hock paired with passion fruit and pineapple (proving that the much-reviled Hawaiian pizza might have some redeeming qualities); the confit duck bon bon served with the duck liver rolled in pistachio (Murchison could make a fortune selling these as party food at Waitrose); and the rabbit with black pudding and a carrot jus.  Special praise goes to the team for assembling an all-British cheese board that rivals anything in France, with several options sourced from less than 20 miles away.  Expensive?  Yes.  But I'll keep going because the consistent excellence shows me I get what I pay for, and I can depend upon them for a delightful and memorable night.

Back in London, Barbecoa demonstrates the same talent for getting it right.  Backed by the starry trans-Atlantic team of UK superchef Jamie Oliver and American counterpart Adam Perry Lang, this upscale BBQ joint happens to be across the street from my office, so I'm probably here once every couple of months..  It's all sleek design and massive windows overlooking St. Paul's cathedral with a dining room looking in to the open pits.  All very trendy city of London.  But close your eyes and any Midwestern American will smell home.  This place knows how to combine flame, smoke and grill.

We had issues with the service the first time we ate here, but that, happily, has been an aberration.  I've worked my way through pulled pork (delightful, although far less authentic since they substituted the original cornbread with a gourmet waffle), the burger, ribs, fillet steak and most recently a grilled chicken breast on top of a well-crafted smoked corn salsa.  It's all been on par with the best BBQ places in Chicago, St. Louis or Memphis.  Which is about the highest praise I can deliver.

My only criticism?  Value for money.  This is simple food.  But it's served up in a posh setting with one hell of a view, under the aegis of famous chefs.  Which means that the bill for three courses here, plus some bread and olives and a side of veg (which you'll need, because there's not much besides the meat on that plate) will easily come in at £60.  For less than £20 more, you're at L'Ortolan's tasting menu. 

My search is still on for a place that's just as good, just as reliable, but cheaper.  Meanwhile, both L'Ortolan and Barbecoa will see as much of me as circumstance, lunch meetings and finances allow.