How wrong I was!
We never did get that fry-up. Our hotel kitchen was out of commission. My favourite breakfast spot of memory, the historic and lavishly decorated Bewley's Oriental Cafe, is closed for a major renovation. The cafe we found on our Sunday morning wander delivered something deeply average. Thankfully, everything else we encountered was a delight ... though a good deal fancier and more expensive than I'd anticipated.Basing ourselves between St. Stephen's Green and Trinity College turned out to be an inspired choice on the food and drink front. Tempting menus beckoned from a score of establishments within a 5-minute walk. We ended up drawn repeatedly to a small stretch on Merrion Row, where fine options cluster cheek-by-jowl.
O'Donoghues pub is the perfect place to start ... or finish ... any evening thanks to their robust tradition of Irish music. A stone's throw away is Bang, an elegant, modern restaurant with three floors of dining space each open to each other, rising like treads on a spiralling stair. It's earned "plate" accreditation in the Michelin Guide (just below a star) and the accents of the diners on a Saturday night suggest it's a clear favourite with the locals. (We probably should have booked; somehow, we got lucky.)
This is a typical modern, fine-dining establishment, stressing seasonal, local produce and presenting dishes with artistic flair. We were impressed by starters of perfectly-griddled tuna (caramelised on the outside, pink in the centre) with wasabi puree and seared foie gras on house cured duck ham. A short mains menu majors on rich proteins: duck breast, lamb rump, sirloin, halibut. Deserts like chocolate delice with cherry gel and caramel ice cream, or salted caramel parfait with honeycomb and mango sorbet, packed a flavour punch. Without any planning, we had started very well indeed.
The next night we were across the street and down a few doors at Hugo's, a marvellously cozy French establishment with enough lush fabrics, wooden panelling, mirrors, brass and chandeliers to suggest the heart of the Left Bank rather than Dublin. There's an impressive wine list, offering mostly French options but adding interesting options from around the world, with more than 50 possibiities by the glass ... all at fair prices. As with Bang, there's an emphasis on local sourcing: Dingle Bay Crab, St. Tola's goat's cheese, Kilkeel scallops, Irish beef. When envisioning comfort food in Ireland I hadn't thought of Tournedos Rossini with a glass of velvety Burgundy, but this is comfort food indeed. The comfort of kings. Hugo's did it as well as I've had anywhere.
A leisurely 15-minute stroll across town, closer to Dublin Castle and in the shadow of the impressive Victorian facade of the George's Street Arcade, we found another pair of delicious and noteworthy restaurants a stone's throw from each other. This time, in both cases, we'd unwittingly fallen into the hands of celebrity chef Dylan McGrath, who owns a cluster of eateries around this obviously trendy area.
The concept here is Irish "tapas": homey favourites given a gourmet twist, served in small, sharable plates. Three choices per person produces a satisfying buffet of a lunch. Chunks of pork belly served crostini-style, beautiful fresh prawns, strips of rare sirloin. The outstanding dish was an amazing crab sandwich cut into soldiers you dipped into an eggshell filled with freshly-made mayonnaise, served with wickedly delicious fries. Turns out there's a regular restaurant, as well (they weren't serving that menu on Sunday afternoon) and a cool, elegant roof bar. My only problem with tapas-style dining, of course, is that I feel you always end up spending more than yo would have for a traditional two courses. But there's no denying that the quality here was exceptional.
The next day, with these three fine dining experiences behind me and still disappointed on the Irish breakfast front, all I wanted was a good, simple burger. Peering in the windows of Brasserie Sixty6, something reminded me of an American diner. A hamburger led the lunch menu. We plunged in. Once settled, I realised the mood was ... as the name implied ... more busy Parisian bistro, with menus chalked up on boards, plush banquettes and lots of mirrors. Though the lunch menu was filled with simple favourites, a drinks menu with a beguiling list of artisan gins and vodkas hinted at a more sophisticated place. The burger, with smoked applewood cheddar, bacon, homemade chutney, three-onion creme fraiche, thick cut chips and aioli, showed off how a simple dish can be elevated to greatness when packed with flavour. It was outstanding. And, at £10, probably the best deal we had while dining out in Dublin. Naturally, there was a hefty list of artisan beers and ciders to go alongside.
We finally got our traditional pub grub on our last night, when we headed out to the Abbey Tavern in
Howth. Though this picturesque coastal village surrounding a ruined abbey feels like rural Ireland, it's only 45 minutes from Dublin, linked by train and a popular neighbourhood for affluent commuters. The "world famous" (according to their web site) Irish pub puts on a show of traditional Irish music and dancing accompanied by a three-course meal from a set menu, followed by Irish coffee. It's a description that screams "tourist trap" and I wasn't expecting much. Somehow, they manage to make the experience feel both intimate and authentic. I wrote about the music in the last entry. On the food front, smoked salmon followed by beef and Guiness pie, with Bailey's cheesecake to finish, was obviously the stuff of mass catering, but flavourful and put together from quality ingredients. Far better than I had anticipated from what I thought would be a tourist factory.
If you get a chance, cast aside your skepticism and head to Howth; the Abbey's Irish Night is an atmospheric summary of the island's hospitality. And it's good to know that, while much of Dublin has gone posh and foodie, the traditional places are still delivering their simple comforts, too.
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