Great views come with inflated prices, and there's no doubt that maxim is in play here. You get spectacular vistas of London from here, made even more magnificent at sunset. A dinner reservation gets you in to the Sky Garden 45 minutes before your table time (even though it closes to day visitors at 6pm), so you can grab a drink and wander through the tropical vegetation taking in the city below.
Inside the restaurant, all remained as I wrote about it last time: warm, sophisticated, bending over backwards to be resolutely British. Even though our servers ... not a native-born Brit amongst them ... came from a bewildering variety of European locations. Though we only officially had the table for just two hours, if you order the chef's menu all such rules are suspended. Thereafter followed a luxurious procession of eight courses (£85) with matching wine flight (£65). Given that, in my earlier review, I warned that you should set aside £100 each for three courses and some drinks, the set prices of the chef's menu begin to look like good value for money ... if not a bargain.In a sophisticated, international city awash with exotic restaurants, Fenchurch bends over backwards to be local. (Despite the accents of those who work here.) From the Goodwood Estate steak tartare, to the early asparagus and Devon crab, to the brill caught in English waters paired with buttery Jersey Royals to the Nyetimber sparking wine pairing an artichoke and ham dish early on. That artichoke isn't local, of course; April inevitably forces the chef to look abroad for some of his veg.
It is mostly, however, a testimony to just how good English ingredients can be. Even the lamb (a meat I generally detest) was tasty, served rare with rainbow chard, ewe's cheese and salsify. This was a meal, however, that built to a crescendo with its deserts. First, shortbread with lemon curd, passion fruit and buttermilk ice cream, served with a sweet Moscato d'Asti from northern Italy. And then, as if the chef understood that our table was primarily female and would feel no meal was complete without chocolate ... a cold chocolate cake paired with piping hot chocolate sauce and vanilla ice cream. Simple comfort food if it hadn't been for the exotic Cypriot sweet wine that went along with it. And those views, of course. Now of a night-scape twinkling with lights to a distant horizon.
There are no Michelin stars here, despite the chef's menu and fancy menu items. I can't tell you why, as the tastes and presentation were on par with many a one-star spot I've been lucky enough to dine in. I suppose that's a good thing, as a star would inevitably bump up the price. For now, if you're looking for a good spot for a special event, Fenchurch delivers great food and wine, stunning views and a unique all-round experience that has a Michelin star feel, for marginally less ... and with tables much easier to book ... than an officially starred establishment.
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