13 sightseeing bargains in London

The prolonged weakness of the pound against the dollar is clearly having an effect: I've heard from more American acquaintances scheduled to visit London this year than in the past four put together.

London is still bracingly expensive for most visitors, however, so everyone is on the lookout for inexpensive sightseeing options. This normally means museums: we have extraordinary collections and, unlike the rest of Europe, they're almost all free. But what if you're not a museum person? If a big of culture is fine, but too much is no fun? Here are 13 options that are either free, or under a tenner, in the English capital.

ONE: MUSEUM DINING ROOMS

Let's start with museums, but not for the reason you think. A handful of our great institutions also have some of the best bars and dining rooms in London; they can be great places to dine with ceremony at a reasonable cost. I have three favourites. The dining rooms at the Victoria and Albert Museum were purpose built to go along with the building and are masterpieces of Edwardian splendour. And their cafeteria-style food isn't bad. Tate Modern's bar and restaurant in the original building, not the new extension, has stunning views over the Thames to St. Paul's Cathedral. Food's a bit expensive for what you get but if you can linger over a drink it's tremendous value. The Portrait Restaurant at the National Portrait Gallery has a unique view over the roof to Trafalgar Square. This is getting pricey, but they often have packages ... especially if you dine early.

TWO: THE MITHRAEUM

I haven't been here yet, but you can descend to the basement of the new Bloomberg HQ building to see the remains of a Roman temple and other artefacts from Roman London. This is the result of a recent dig when they tore an old building down to erect the new. The marshy riverbed below preserved things exceptionally. It's supposed to be fascinating, and is free ... you just need to reserve a place. https://www.londonmithraeum.com/

THREE: A RICH AMERICAN'S OFFICE

When William Waldorf Astor moved to London he "went native" by building a Thames-side estate Three and Four Musketeers, his favourite books. It's now the HQ of a charity and only open a few months early in each year for special exhibitions. Free. (The 2018 show is on the Jazz Age.) You don't have to do the "museum-y" bit, though. You can just turn up and wander around the building, which may look familiar from its regular use in television drama. It most famously appeared as the venue for Lady Rose's wedding in Downton Abbey. https://twotempleplace.org/

office that was completely over-the-top in its traditional European architecture. It's a very personal building designed to his specifications. The main stair, for example, is decorated with hand-carved figures from the

FOUR: THE SKY GARDEN (top photo)

In order to get planning permission these days, builders need to give something back to the general public. 20 Fenchurch Street in The City (known to locals as "the walkie talkie) did this by turning its top four floors into an enormous conservatory. The "Sky Garden" features temperate tropical plants on a series of terraces. The low point overlooking the Thames has an observatory deck, and there are great views of London as you go around the whole thing. There's a bar on the main floor and two restaurants rising through the terraces in the centre (both good but expensive). It's free to get into the garden but you must book in advance, bring proof of your reservation and have ID.  https://skygarden.london/

FIVE: THE OLYMPIC PARK

London is full of magnificent parks and gardens. St. James' park is probably the most picturesque, Hyde Park has the most elements inside it (like Central Park in New York City). But if you want to try something quirkier, why not hop the Jubilee Line down to the Olympic Park? They've taken the landscaping very seriously and the architecture of the sports venues is impressive. It may also be interesting for a tourist, who's usually immersed in olde worlde London, to see a part of town that's entirely modern. This part of East London was redeveloped for the Olympics and is now a cluster of gleaming towers around a massive mall and entertainment complex. Free to wander around, though there are some attractions that charge to get in. http://www.queenelizabetholympicpark.co.uk/

SIX: RIVER TRAVEL

Everyone should see London from the river, its lifeline for so much of its history. The typical tourist jaunt involves booking a return journey to Greenwich from Westminster Pier. Greenwich is a great day out and there's lots to see between the museums and a charming town centre. But there are cheaper options for getting onto the river. The Tate to Tate boat takes visitors from Tate Britain to Tate Modern for about £5. http://www.tate.org.uk/visit/tate-boat Transport for London also runs river buses; these are not included in your travel card but it does give you a discount which brings their fares down to a few pounds https://tfl.gov.uk/modes/river/about-river-bus

SEVEN: THE GLOBE THEATRE

One of the pricier things on my list! You'll need £10 per person to tour the Globe theatre complex, which includes the main stage (a copy of Shakespeare's own theatre, open air, built with traditional craftsmanship; the Wanamaker (indoor, intimate, candlelit Jacobean theatre in reproduction) and a very good Shakespeare exhibit that's as much about the phenomenon of Shakespeare and the theatre project as it is about the Bard and his work. Definitely check the web site first, though, because they close parts depending on what's in rehearsal. http://www.shakespearesglobe.com/ Productions tend to sell out well in advance, especially in the Wannamaker, but being a groundling in the pits can cost as little as £5. Which means that if you're not into the full production, you can have the experience and slip away when you've lost interest.

EIGHT: LONDON WALKS

Another £10 splurge! You can find lots of walking tours in London these days but London Walks are the original and the best. They're led by fabulously informed guides on all topics, usually either actors or academics who do this to bring in some extra cash. And because they love it. Everyone flocks to Jack the Ripper but I'd recommend Legal London, Mayfair and any of their pub crawls. You just turn up at the right meeting point, hand over your cash and go. http://www.walks.com/

NINE: PUBS

Speaking of pubs ... pubs are as much a part of the historic fabric of London as cathedrals, museums and palaces. Do a bit of internet research and you'll find scores of "best of" lists. Everyone has their favourites. Mine include, for professional reasons, Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese (it's a dive, but Johnson, Boswell, Addison and Steele drank here; it's the world's first journalists' bar); The Black Friar (art nouveau masterpiece on the theme of monks making wine); Cittie of Yorke (late Victorians' idea of what a medieval pub would have looked like, like the set of an Errol Film flick); The Grenadier (former army officers' mess tucked away in Belgravia in some of the priciest real estate in London, stay late and look in windows on your way home for a view of how the 1% live); The Viaduct (proper Victorian gin palace with lots of brass and smoked glass). Note that while pubs have upped their game on the food stakes, the most picturesque ones often don't make an effort on the food front ... because they don't need to. They'll do fine burgers, chilli, pies, etc. for a reasonable price. "Gastropubs" are all about the food. Many are delicious (The Orange on Pimlico Road is a favourite) but you'll easily push past £50 for a 3-course meal and some drinks.

TEN: THE CITY

The City of London is just a square mile, home to so much history, but few tourists spend much time here after checking out St. Paul’s and the Tower. It’s a great place to wander. Gorgeous Wren churches, the Museum of London (free, fun), Leadenhall Market (Victorian wonder, now mostly restaurants), lots of great Victorian pubs. All the history is wedged in between modern spikes of steel and glass. You’ll have little tourism competition and there’s not even much road traffic. Just lots of office workers. Cross over London Bridge to Southwark to wander through Borough Market, in the shadow of Southwark Cathedral. It's London's best food market, filled with artisan producers, high-end fruit and veg vendors and an ever-changing glory of food trucks and stalls.

ELEVEN: MAYFAIR & ST. JAMES SHOPS

Go window shopping. Luxury brands and galleries cluster around Bond Street. Burlington Arcade is arguably the world’s first covered shopping mall. I like Princes Arcade across the street, where gentlemen have been buying their accessories since Beau Brummell’s time. This is where you can still get dressing gowns like Lord Grantham’s or “smoking hats” like Oscar Wilde’s. My husband will spend thousands at Budd here when we win the lottery. Jermyn Street and the street’s behind it ... now you’re in St. James’ ... are where English society has been procuring the finer things for centuries. Don’t miss Berry Brothers and Rudd, wine sellers to the Crown since the 17th century with a gorgeous historic shop and, believe it or not, decent prices on nice wines. (They played a major role in the last Kingsmen film, which everyone here finds a grand joke.)

TWELVE: HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT

If you book in advance (at least two months to be safe), you can get a free tour of the Houses of Parliament https://www.parliament.uk/visiting/ Amazing building: medieval great hall, the rest is Victorian. Group tours with informed guides mix history with the workings of modern government. This is particularly interesting if you’ve done Washington DC, to see how the American system compares to its governmental mother. It's been much in the news lately that the whole place is in precarious shape; it will soon be closed down for an enormous refurbishment. So book while you can.

THIRTEEN: CHANGING GUARDS

If you want to see a changing of the guard, my personal choice would be to head to Horseguards (11 am Monday - Saturday, 10 am on Sundays) rather than Buckingham Palace nearby. Equally showy uniforms, but on horses and with fewer tourists. Buckingham Palace's changing is also at 11am, though conventional wisdom says be in place in front of palace by 10:15 if you want to see anything. There, they march up and down, have bearskin hats and play musical instruments. I like the horses better. Always check web sites for either as these can change with Royal or diplomatic schedules.