A phoenix and three pigs top the Copenhagen logistics list

Having consumed our fill of traditional Danish cuisine at family tables, and having ticked the boxes on Danish fine dining last trip, we were rather relieved when the hotel concierge suggested a French restaurant.

"Reasonably priced, good food, far enough from the centre to draw locals but close enough to make it an easy taxi ride ... we've been getting raves about this place."  That was the report on Les Trois Cochons, and reality lived up to expectations.

The restaurant is in Vesterbro.  Formerly the red light and meat packing district (interesting confluence of trades there), it's now a hipster neighbourhood heaving with trendy restaurants and cool boutiques. We were a bit anxious about those "hip" and "trendy" labels.  Face it, that's not really us.  But the Danes have a flair for laid-back inclusivity.  So while I might have been in one of the hottest spots in town, I simply felt like I was in a cozy, welcoming bistro with friendly service and a nice buzz.

In this hideously expensive city, the Cochons keeps prices down with a limited menu.  If you're coming through the door, you'll be having three courses for 295 kroner (about £30).  The starters will be a grazing platter of three items to share (a jerusalem artichoke bake was our favourite), and they take the same approach with dessert.  Creme brûlées, chocolate pots, crumbles, etc. served in homey mason jars ready for friendly sharing.  You'll probably have a choice of either fish or meat; again, two people need to choose one dish to share.  We went for the catch of the day mostly to keep the wine choice simple.  Alcohol taxes are very high in Denmark, so even when you find a reasonable restaurant, your drinks are likely to double the bill.  You can make your meal here more special by adding on extra courses (foie gras in between starter and main, cheese at the end).  We did this, as of course I can never resist foie gras, but it was actually a mistake.  Portions were hearty, and it was really too much food.  The three courses were ample, and the dining deal of the trip.

The local knowledge came from the front desk at the Hotel Phoenix, much better than our last Copenhagen hotel and a place we're likely to return based on a combination of price and location.  Just behind Amalienborg Palace, a quick walk from Nyhavn, you could survive nicely here without ever needing transport beyond your two feet.  Decor is white and gold, marble and pale wood.  The rooms have an old fashioned, unfussy elegance and those with exterior views have tall windows taking in some impressive architectural views.  I was less enamoured with the public spaces, which felt a bit like a marble sarcophagus crossed with a conference centre.  The breakfast room was perfectly functional and served a great morning buffet (hot and cold, fabulous pastries), but looked like an awkward pop up when transformed to a restaurant at night.  We didn't eat there.

We did, however, dine across the hall in the bar.  Murdoch's Books and Ale is accessible from the main street (Bredgade) through a separate door, and its English library decor (dark wood, glass-fronted bookshelves) with somewhat painful 1970s retro carpeting looks nothing like the rest of the hotel.  This odd cognitive dissonance was further enhanced the first night, when a Dane with a Yankees cap occupied the bar and country music played on the sound system.  But it's worth a visit for the range of tasty Danish beers.  Many of them aren't exported, and are definitely worth exploration.  The biggest surprise?  One of the best hamburgers I've had in years.  Better than any of my "go to" places in the states.  Brioche bun, loaded with extras, generous patty tasting of proper meat, soft and juicy and served at a perfect medium rare.  If I lived in Copenhagen, I'd be a regular here.


Our first night, having arrived late and being travel weary, we followed the tourists to Nyhavn.  The street along the dock is a restaurant row laid out for foreign visitors, and every one has a similar menu.  Pickled herring platters, fresh fish, pork.  After a wander down the row we returned to the first one that caught our eye, at the very start of the options.  Restaurant Barock was perfectly pleasant, if nothing to write home about.  Its high points are an opulent room with painted ceiling (hence the "barock"), a good view and a jazz standards soundtrack.  We dined on lobster and veal, which I suspect they turn out night after night all year.  It tasted a bit like upscale banquet food.  Which is probably what we deserved for venturing onto tourist row.  Fortunately, it wasn't a tourist trap, being tasty enough and decent value for money.

Had I known just how amazing that burger would be, however, we would have dined in at Murdoch's two nights in a row.  The place is another reason for returning to the Phoenix.