New Somerset House restaurant will put a Spring in your step

London's Somerset House continues its transition from grand office building to entertainment complex with a new restaurant in its northwest corner.  You'll fall in love with Spring, the latest venture from Australian Chef and food writer Skye Gyngell, before you taste your first bite ... because this is one of the most elegant, soothing and refined dining rooms in all of London.

From the potted trees in the hall, leading you to the front door like a trail of arboreal bread crumbs, to the garden room ahead of you when you come into the reception and bar area, to the colour pallet of light, fresh whites, green and greys, the look evokes the name.  Add a forest of stately white columns holding up the roof, massive, arched Georgian windows and modern art that looks like colonies of abstract butterflies have settled on the walls, and it's hard to believe one of London's busiest roads is just outside.  The whole place feels marvellously pastoral.  That extends to the staff, who wear a range custom-created linen outfits in those delicate spring colours.  Frankly, they're missing a trick not opening a clothing boutique next door.  I've often envied a restaurant's china or crystal; this is the first time I've wanted the maitre d's dress.

The food lives up to the surroundings.  Light, fresh, locally sourced, elegantly presented.  The menu's classic European with an in Italian bent.  My salad of burrata, san daniele prosciutto and baby greens showed off how good their sourcing was.  The cheese was so fresh it had hardly completed it's transformation from cream.  The ham was of a quality un-obtainable in regular markets and the greens had the sharp bite and clear flavour that fades soon after harvest.  Around the table, everyone else's eyes widened and lips curved into a smile as they moaned appreciatively over delights like crab ravioli and nettle risotto.

The mains kept up the excellence.  My rabbit ... which I contend is the hardest of all meats to cook well ... was succulent perfection.  Game birds and fish of the day underpinned the seasonality of the place.  On to some soul satisfying chocolate.  The details of which, I must admit, I can't really remember because we were pairing everything with some stunning wines.  Kudos to a wait staff who could sensitively and helpfully steer us from our original choices to something just a little more perfect to match the dishes.  Including a range of dessert wines and after dinner drinks to seal the warm afterglow.

There's only one problem with Spring:  it's solidly in "expense account" territory.  I was the guest of some very special colleagues who were giving me a send-off from my last job.  With sta
rters averaging £15, mains £30 and desserts £12 ... with an accordingly-priced wine list ... you're not going to be popping in here every day.  Although there is a set three course lunch for £29.50, which would give you a taste of the place if not the full indulgence.

As more of the Inland Revenue packs up and abandons Somerset House, I look forward to the Spring boutique and then, please, the Spring Spa.  With this combination of design, food and drink, I never want to leave.