St. Mawes is an idyllic bolthole, designed for quiet lingering

If you asked Disney's "imagineers" to design the perfect Cornish holiday village, they'd probably come up with St. Mawes. 

Regular readers will know that I prefer my beaches with warm waters and coral reefs. But if you can't manage the trek to palm trees and pina coladas, this tiny enclave on the southern tip of the Roseland peninsula is rather special.

I've already described the charm of the location in my earlier story on places to stay. I didn't recommend the village's most famous hotel, Tresanton, but I'd happily return and give other options a try. The pure visual appeal of the place is the main reason why. 

Look seaward for a sheltered bay bracketed by a lighthouse and a castle, with a busy channel beyond it dotted with an unceasing passage of sail and motorboat. Look inland for a ring of tidy, colourful houses climbing the encircling hill like well-dressed glitterati packing an amphitheatre. The village centre boasts a tiny harbour, which is mostly employed with ferries to Falmouth and other points on the Fal estuary, though piles of lobster pots and a fresh seafood stand attest that a few fishing boats still call this home. There are two traditional pubs and a wealth of independent boutiques, small galleries, hotels and restaurants that belie the resident population of just over 700. The reason, of course, is the holiday trade.

Much of Cornwall is dependant on tourism. But famous spots like St. Ives, Padstow and Penzance are on main roads, bustling with both residents and visitors, and can feel practically urban in high season. St. Mawes' position is more isolated. It's a solid 40 minutes by road from anything that wouldn't qualify as rural. (Don’t drive too fast on those roads or the local cops may catch you speeding. Trust me on this one.) A satnav's favoured route in may well take you by way of the King Harry Ferry. It's picturesque, but adds even more time as you're likely to have to wait for a crossing. St. Mawes' relative isolation gives it a calm, quiet, rural appeal. It's a destination to linger, not a base for extensive sightseeing. 

Which is exactly what we did.

We didn’t move the car once in our three days there. You could easily while away a couple of weeks without straying far. Low tide exposes properly sandy beaches and I suspect the bay is shallow enough, and cut off enough from the main channel, to have the chance of warming to something above bone chilling in summer. There were actually wild swimmers in the bay during our late October visit, sans wetsuits. The surrounding Roseland peninsula is rich with countryside for walking. Some of England’s most famous sub-tropical gardens are nearby; a ferry in the harbour will take you up the river to the renown house and garden at Trelissick. If you want more urban excitement, Falmouth is just a 20-minute ferry ride across the estuary.

Here are our highlights. 

THE CASTLE

Henry VIII worried constantly about French invasion, so invested in a chain of defensive castles along England’s east and south coasts. No self-respecting Renaissance monarch built anything ugly or unadorned, of course, and the “Henrician” castles prove the point. St. Mawes is a typical example, built of round towers intersecting each other. From the air they can look like a Venn diagramme, a cloverleaf or a flower, depending on your viewpoint. 

Some have been adapted and turned into residences, like the wonderful Walmer Castle (which I wrote about here). St. Mawes’ Castle is mostly an empty shell. Though its English Heritage caretakers have ensured a sound roof over the central tower, the rooms inside are empty. The most picturesque bits are outside, anyway. Despite centuries of battering by salt-laden winds, some of the gargoyles and decorative accents remain, including part of a lavish inscription surrounded by angels celebrating Henry’s son, the future Edward VI.

The castle faces its sister fortification, Pendennis, in Falmouth. Between them, their firepower was designed to prevent any invading navy from getting up the River Fal. Something that, fortunately, no hostile force ever tried. The grounds are strewn with cannon. Military buffs will find both them and the earthworks interesting, and there’s loads of history here including chapters in the Civil War and World War II. But most visitors will simply appreciate taking in spectacular views from within the frame of magnificent architecture. 

FALMOUTH

Town planners wringing their hands over the death of the high street should make a study of Falmouth, where a bustling stretch of pedestrianised high street is almost devoid of big chains. There are, instead, one-of-a-kind galleries, toy stores, clothing boutiques, home decorating emporiums and gift shops. Dining and drinking options are equally local, with family owned pubs, independent restaurants, gin emporiums and coffee shops. This being Cornwall there are, naturally, tea shops, chippies and pasty sellers, none of which we had a chance to sample during our time in the county because we never had room between our late, hearty breakfasts and our plentiful three-course dinners. We did spend some time drinking, however. The Stable, located in the historic Old Customs House, has a bewildering range of 50 ciders, many from small producers unavailable outside of the West Country.

Falmouth's affluent, independent high street no doubt owes much to the fact it's adjacent to a yacht harbour. Unsurprisingly, it reminds me a lot of the main drag in Cowes. Falmouth itself extends much further, and even without the traffic-blocking bollards it was obvious where the tourist area ended and "real" town began. Cue Boots, M&S and mobile network shops. But the picturesque heart near the harbour is a delight not to be missed, and just 20 minutes from St. Mawes on the ferry.

ST. JUST IN ROSELAND

We found this gem thanks to a hot tip from a regular visitor to the area. The church of St. Just is a small, 13th century building with a 15th century tower sitting in splendid isolation next to a tiny inlet where the St. Just creek flows into the Fal estuary. A deep quiet covers the scene, broken only by the cry of seagulls and the drip of various tiny streams ... including a holy well ... trickling toward the larger body of water. It  would be easy to imagine yourself a Medieval pilgrim were it not for a few modern sailboats at anchor and a sprawling Victorian house across the water. 

Such a pretty church in such a serene setting would be enough of a reason to visit, but St. Just's real glory is its churchyard. A steep slope rears up behind the building, thick with moss-covered tombstones and heavily planted with a dazzling mix of woodland and sub-tropical plants. most of the graves near the church are Georgian or Victorian, showing off a variety of sculptural styles and well covered by mosses. It astonishes me that none of the major Vampire movie franchises have found this place. It's a Gothic delight; like a miniature version of Highgrove Cemetery, with palm trees and ferns.

The car park and an adjacent tea shop are well out of sight of the prettiest scenes. A variety of hikes stretch out from here for those with more time than we had.

PUBS: THE VICTORY, THE HOUSE OF THE RISING SUN

Both of the pubs at the centre of St. Mawes are classics. 

The Victory lies a short walk up a steep street running up from the harbour and is the simpler of the two. There's no fancy decor, the tables are simple wooden slabs and the photos on the wall aren't put there by a designer, but because they show the locals busy around the neighbourhood. Don't let the simplicity fool you; the people next to me were talking about how their Aga was fairing in their kitchen renovation and whether or not they were going to dry dock their yacht for the winter. The service here is fantastic; the publican remembered not only me, but my drink order, from my first visit and asked if I wanted another before I'd reached the table on my return.

The House of The Rising Sun is much bigger, and also a stone's throw from the harbour. Designers have staged this one a bit more, with a variety of rooms all sharing a jolly nautical theme. There's a large conservatory across the front of the building which is perfect for a blustery day. Thanks to the new pandemic-friendly ordering app, we could sit at our leisure, watch the weather turn from sun to rain and back again, and hit a few buttons on a phone to summon another round. Dangerous.

THE WATCH HOUSE

So good we ate there twice, this restaurant is one of our favourite memories of St. Mawes. A tremendously genial staff, local and seasonal produce, a small but surprisingly good wine list and a view of the water from which much of the menu came. Though there were meaty options, we all chose seafood both nights. Flavours ranged from the traditional ... fish and chips, fresh oysters, prawn cocktail ... to the slightly exotic ... Oriental-spiced fried squid with sriracha mayonnaise, Asian-inspired hake on a bed of spicy Dal. Locally made ice creams made a simple but appropriate ending. It's a shame that pandemic regulations demanded a 10 o'clock close at the time. This is the kind of place we would have loved to linger at for hours.

The focus shifts to luxury hotels as the annual Girls’ Trip stays home

 I should have been reporting from Krakow.

Over the years my annual girls’ trip, now in its 19th year with the original trio of Northwestern University friends at its core, has brought this blog to some of Europe’s most intriguing vineyards, historic townscapes and magnificent dining experiences. We’ve even stretched to the beaches of Florida and the vast drama of Iceland. Not this year.

Once our flights to Poland cancelled, we decided that the combination of shifting COVID-19 regulations with the scheduling pressures of (now) four intensely busy professional women made foreign travel impractical. It was time for a staycation. Devon and Cornwall beckoned. Fortunately, though diagnosed illnesses were rising across the UK and much of the country was heightening restrictions as the trip approached, the infection rate in the West Country remained low. And with the money we’d save on that cancelled travel, we could splash out on some properly luxurious hotels.

Our destinations: two nights at the Bovey Castle Hotel in the windswept drama of Dartmoor National Park and three at British hotelier and designer Olga Polizzi’s famed Tresanton in the achingly charming Cornish fishing village of St. Mawes. The first was a triumph on every front, including an unexpectedly lavish seven-course tasting menu. The second, though a tour de force of location and exquisite interior design, fell down on enough basic service points to leave me questioning the value I got for my money. I’d happily return to Bovey Castle, but another trip to St. Mawes would see me trying other options in the village.

BOVEY CASTLE

Arts and Crafts designer Detmar Blow created the neo-Jacobean pile for the W. H. Smith family in 1907. Though it looks a thoroughly aristocratic establishment, the architecture doth protest too much. Blow’s traditional designs were countering the very new money that came from the owner’s stationery business. The property’s old-world scale quickly proved impractical and by 1930 it was already being run as a hotel, a status the castle has retained ever since through a procession of owners. 

The original country house is still very much at the heart of the experience. Guests have the run of a variety of aristocratic settings for genteel relaxation, from a dark-panelled bar that could be a Shakespearean stage set to a towering great hall with minstrels gallery and enormous oriel window taking in the moor. 

There’s a whole sitting room’s worth of overstuffed sofas beneath the grand staircase with its hunting lodge-style chandelier of stag’s antlers, a library that feels like Jeeves and Wooster just popped out, and a brighter, more delicate Georgian-inspired drawing room no doubt designed for the ladies to withdraw into after dinner. We lounged in front of at least three live fires across our two-night stay, with tweed-clad staff members regularly nipping by to add logs and see if we needed more drinks. 

Our rooms were all on the first floor of the main house with high ceilings and atmospheric leaded window frames, but the lower key decor that went for a more modern elegance. Extensions and subsidiary buildings bring the number of rooms to 60. There are also self-catering lodges in the grounds, which include beautiful gardens and an award-winning golf course. Even though the place seemed to be operating at or near full capacity, we never felt crowded by others and could always make enough space not to hear other group’s conversations. That’s always a bonus but feels particularly relevant when trying to holiday during a pandemic.

Dartmoor is one of the few places that feel like real wilderness in England. The landscape is vast, rugged and sparsely inhabited. This is Hound of the Baskervilles country. Storms crash across the moors with little to stop them and the few roads that traverse the national park are either lonely ribbons disappearing into miles of fern- and heather-covered grazing land, or narrow tracks sunk between hedgerows with limited visibility. In short: it’s not the kind of place you want to go driving around in at night. We ate both dinners in.  

There’s a modern brasserie at one end of the main building and a warren of more formal, inter-connected dining rooms forming the Great Western restaurant at the other. Limited pandemic options mean pre-booking is essential and fine dining is only available Friday and Saturday nights, limited to a seven-course tasting menu. This was no sacrifice, dear reader. We could have easily grazed across the brasserie’s menu multiple nights, and the culinary extravaganza on Friday was on par with any of the fancy nights out we’ve enjoyed over years of Girls’ Trip culinary excess. The hotel had only recently re-opened the Great Western so the staff was positively giddy with enthusiasm. By the end of the evening we were on first-name terms with our sommelier Richard, whose wine flights were well judged and inventive, and our lead server Emma. We were delighted by the local sourcing of the food and the time the team took to tell us about it. Autumnal liver and mushroom pate, a creamy artichoke veloute, and the estate’s own venison in a velvety red wine sauce are, frankly, exactly the kinds of things you should be eating in a firelit castle while the wind howls outside.

The weather isn’t always frightening on Dartmoor and there’s a wealth of things to do here, including hiking across dramatic views, villages with a high proportion of interesting gift shops and galleries and a vast number of tourist attractions from worthy National Trust houses to child-pleasers like Pixieland and the House of Marbles. We ventured out briefly but spent most of our visit simply enjoying the facilities. This includes a beautiful Art Deco-style pool with deep blue tiles, a built-in jacuzzi and a glass wall taking in more of that sweep of moorland. Access to that and the gym is included with your room, though these days must be pre-booked. The castle also has a range of country activities including shooting, archery, fishing and carriage rides that can be booked for an additional fee.

We were all sorry to leave, but the promise of an even more lavish experience lay ahead.

TRESANTON

Hotel Tresanton is one of those places that’s acquired the status of legend amongst affluent London executives. Spoken of with the same reverence people lavish on the Soho House properties, the members’ club at Skibo or the Ivy’s private dining room back when there was only one “The Ivy” in the UK, designer and hotelier Olga Polizzi’s laid-back beach club in Cornwall has been a go-to choice for the great and the good’s seaside holidays since it opened in the late ‘90s. Its exquisite interiors have probably featured in every British design magazine and it regularly turns up in the luxury escapes features of publications like the Financial Times’ “How to Spend It” or Country Life’s travel supplements. 

We were expecting a lot. 

We were disappointed.

Tresanton is nearly 40% more expensive than Bovey Castle and yet the Dartmoor hotel beat it on every front; most particularly on service and on pandemic management that made us feel safe. Tresanton has the feeling of a place resting on its laurels, so sure of the adulation of fashionable London that it doesn’t have to try very hard. That may be the case at the moment, when pandemic-constrained people are dying to get back to familiar places, foreign travel is curtailed and executive home workers are flush with the cash they haven’t spent on commuting and foreign holidays. But it’s a dangerous strategy for a travel industry in crisis. All four of us left with the same conclusion: we’d return to St. Mawes but not to Tresanton, and we’d warn people away from repeating our mistake.

Let me start with the positives. Location. Location. Location. St. Mawes is the kind of adorable fishing village that feels like it’s been cooked up to stage an Agatha Christie detective story or charming little film scripted by Richard Curtis. It snakes around a small, peaceful inlet like an inverted question mark near the entrance to the Fal estuary. A Tudor castle guards one side of the inlet, a lighthouse the other. A jumble of houses ring the harbour and run up the hills behind it, almost all of architectural merit and as pristine as a Disney park. Pastel walls are freshly painted, thatch roofs fairly new, pristine pots spill over with flowers and clean windows sparkle. Tresanton’s windows, balconies and terraces take all of this in. At the edge of the village by the castle, the hotel is far enough away from the centre of things to enjoy the quiet, but a 10 minute stroll will take you to the bustling little harbour with two excellent pubs, a wind-sheltered beach, gift shops and a regular ferry service to Falmouth. There’s loads to do in the surrounding area but you can easily sink into the local scene and abandon your vehicle in the hotel’s hidden car park until it’s time to leave.

Tresanton lives up to its design icon status. Polizzi won plaudits for mixing casual and formal, antique and modern, print with pattern. Most of the place feels like an eclectic and tasteful private home assembled over generations rather than a commercial establishment. There are sisal carpets, slouchy overstuffed down sofas and chairs, piles of intriguing holiday reading and eclectic mixes of art, from African tribal masks to local legend Barbara Hepworth's prints. The restaurants is a cheery blend of blues and whites with aquatic mosaics on the floor and sea shell shaped lighting giving the room a grotto feel. Polizzi arguably established what’s now the standard for high-end boutique hotels. Alnwick’s Cookie Jar, my favourite boutique hotel of recent years, is a direct descendant of what started here. 

The design ethos wasn't uniform, however. Though our twin-bedded room had a glorious bathroom with marble tub and glass shower cube, the girls in the singles reported "identikit Hilton bathrooms with cheesy plastic shower curtains." Loos off public spaces had high end toiletries to wash your hands but cheap paper towels to dry them. Rooms had toilet paper but no tissue. A wall unit in a downstairs hall offered Wellington boots to borrow for tramps along the beach, but some had been put away muddy so were hardly enticing. The longer we stayed, the more we noticed these little gaps in attention to detail.

Our biggest problem with the hotel came from the lack of indoor space, however, exacerbated by a cavalier attitude toward the pandemic. Tresanton is a complex of multiple buildings climbing a hill, with exquisite courtyard gardens and balconies framed by sub-tropical gardens. There was only one indoor sitting room available for 30 guest rooms. Bovey Castle has double the rooms but probably 10 times the indoor lounge space. Tresanton's sitting room (below) is clustered tightly with sofas and chairs and fully packed at meal times when the restaurant adds outside diners to residents. Though staff wear masks the guests can remove theirs as soon as they order drinks. None of us had been with this many strangers in such close proximity since the pandemic started, and we were distinctly uncomfortable. 

The dining room was also packed tight without any of the now-standard Perspex screens to offer some protection when tables are too close for comfort. The food is certainly not worth the sacrifice. Though pleasant, it was inferior to, and more expensive than, meals we had in the village.

The crowding sent a clear message: making money took priority over guest safety.

Even without a pandemic, at this lofty price point you expect more public space to lounge. There was an additional function room behind the lounge and a secondary bar at beach level that could have made extra room, but they were shut tight. Tresanton hadn't adapted any of the outdoor spaces to inclement weather use. No marquees, no canopies. We saw heaters and umbrellas but they weren't deployed. Excusable if we were in Greece but this is Cornwall, where changeable weather should be factored into any plan.

Service was average to indifferent, an impression exacerbated by just how exceptional it had been at Bovey Castle. Interaction was pleasant but perfunctory. There seemed to be no real interest in how we were enjoying our stay (until we checked out) and no desire to chat with us to discover our plans and suggest recommendations. An offer of drinks once settled in the only lounge could take up to an hour. There were no tea and coffee making facilities in the room and a delivery of the request took 40 minutes one morning. When assembled as a foursome we'd ask for water or coffee and it would come with a drinking vessel only for the requestor unless we specified for all of us. Little things, but things that a top boutique hotel hosting our group in the past would figure out after the first interaction. 

We were also intrigued that other than the front desk staff most of the service team seemed to have originated from either Eastern or Southern Europe. While we're used to that in London, it seemed odd in a distant county where employment is so heavily dependant on tourism. Boutique hotels usually put local staff front and centre to show off the nature of the place and provide those insider tips only the natives know. You'll get none of that here.

In reflection, I realise that what bothered me most about Tresanton was the feel it wasn't Cornish at all, but a seaside-themed bubble transported intact from Knightsbridge with all the capital's quirks. The not-quite-on-their-game-yet staff of young immigrants, the crowding, the aloof urban attitude. 

At a lower price point we could have let the irritations ... other than feeling unsafe ... slide in favour of enjoying the views. But let's lay it on the line here: our spacious double with a sea view was £370 per night.  In any circumstance I expect a flawless experience for that price. These days, I also want excessive care of my health and a feeling that the establishment isn't resting on its laurels, but finding ways to innovate and excel through changing times.