Monday, 31 March 2025

A thousand and one bites: Milestones, memories and tugs at heartstrings from almost two decades of blogging

Scheherazade cemented her place in legend by telling 1,001 stories. I’m a long way from legendary as I publish this, my 1,001st post. I am, however, enormously proud of my achievement. This feels like an appropriate milestone from which to take a look back.

The Persian princess famously told one story a night, completing her task in just under three years. It’s taken me a bit longer. I thought I’d start experimenting with the then-new social platform of blogging in May of 2007, meaning that I’ve hit the 1,001 milestone in just short of 18 years. 
My original intent was a story a week. The reality mixed dry spells when I didn’t have much to say with heavy flows of content around holidays. Bencard's Bites launched in the heady days of London before the 2009 financial crash, and therefore drew on a steady stream of corporate hospitality and work events for its source material. The fancy restaurant reviews became a lot less frequent once I was footing the bill, though fine dining continues to turn up several times a year.

Blogging has peaked and faded in the nearly two decades that I’ve been writing. "Influencers" have come to dominate the world of social content, and short form video has replaced blogging as the genre du jour. Some of the most precious young people in my life have wondered by I bother with these tedious words when I could just throw some fun videos out there.

I’ve been doing more video. (Please follow me on TikTok.) But I’m a writer. Video doesn’t give me the same satisfaction. It’s too ephemeral. Too quick. So I keep writing, more to please myself than any audience. Thanks to my years of marketing experience I know that I’ll never hit the influencer big time with my format. To do that, I’d need to focus on one niche rather than roaming across travel, food, wine and culture. I’d probably need to get more populist in my style and subjects: I write for a well-educated audience, probably older, interested in the finer things in life. My audience is me, and if you want to come along with my journeys, I’m delighted.

If not, I’m building up quite a backlog of memories with which to entertain myself in the nursing home.

Today, at this 1,001st milestone, I’m going to take a self-indulgent stroll down memory lane to call out my favourite pieces over the years.

FROM THE FIRST 100
I launched the blog on a rainy May bank holiday when I couldn’t be bothered to head out into the gloomy weather. It’s a scenario that’s both truly British, and consistent throughout the years. I didn’t realise it, but I was capturing a world that was soon to disappear; this article on London as a golden city built on expense accounts seems hard to believe, these days.

While I started with the idea that the blog would be a far-reaching column with commentary on current events and trends, I quickly drifted away from that idea. Given the vitriol and abuse often attracted by strong opinions on social media, I was probably a bit prescient there. Instead, I got serious about travel. The most exotic adventure in this first century of articles took place deep in the Tunisian countryside, in a ruined Roman city called Dougga. I was also pleased with the tone I managed to capture in this article from Burgundy, and the humour I wove into my sojourn at DisneyWorld with a 7-year-old.

My favourite from this bunch, however, has always been a restaurant review. I believe the greatest reviews go beyond just a description of food and experience to tap into bigger issues. I tried to do this here with musings on the nature of friendship as dear friends prepared to leave the UK. This was their farewell meal, at the Michelin-starred Waterside Inn. I’m delighted to say that the friendship remains as true as the article, and they are just as precious to me now as they were when I wrote this.

THE SECOND CENTURY
These articles span November of 2008 to July of 2010, when the world started shifting dramatically. The financial crisis damaged my professional landscape to an extent it’s never really recovered from, while my mother was diagnosed with terminal cancer. On the positive front, I met the man who would become my husband.

I think this description of how opera seems engineered to help you cope with such dramatic change captured the zeitgeist. Most of my travel in this period was to see my ailing mother. While I love St. Louis, there’s only so much I could mine for excitement, so I raided my pre-blog letters for a description of a trip to South Africa. Five months before I met the man who was to become my husband, I attended my first rugby match. Piers would make the game a significant part of my life, and of this blog. This introduction to rugby at Twickenham laid the foundations for me to be happy about that. 

Even in these early days of social media I recognised the danger of revealing too much personal information, so I tended not to write about anything very private. Thus there’s little here about the giddy joy of finding love at a point in life where I thought I was past the possibility. But I think I captured a bit of the magic in my favourite piece from this hundred. Here, I'm writing about the shift in my perception of Valentine’s Day as I moved from a lonely single to someone in a happy relationship.

THE THIRD CENTURY
Change continued to dominate here, with death, marriage and the return of my breast cancer taking centre stage. Given that I don’t like like to write about gloomy or negative topics, finding content was tough. The standout article of the time was unarguably my mother’s obituary, not just because of its subject but because I’ve rarely worked harder at crafting and honing one piece of copy. It was not just for the blog; I delivered it in person to more than 200 people at her memorial service. So it had to be good. 

Thankfully, this time period had more than enough joy to counter the difficulty. Here we find my introduction to Longborough Festival Opera, which was to become so important to my relationship with my husband and through our future. Despite the economic downturn my work was going well. So well, in fact, that I penned this ode to job satisfaction from a very glamorous gig in Cannes where I emceed an impressive client meeting and had dinner with rugby star Lawrence Dallaglio.

Romance definitely led the fun, however, first with a review of my own wedding (discovering and resolving differences between English and American wedding traditions, frankly, could have been a small book rather than just an article), then coverage of a dreamy honeymoon in Mauritius followed by time in South Africa. Safari, which had been the bit I was probably least excited about, became the highlight of the trip.
THE FOURTH CENTURY
Covering most of 2012 and 2013, this set of articles included far less in the way of monumental change. We moved into our new house and settled into everyday life as a married couple. It was so unexceptional, in fact, that I took the time to publish excerpts from some old travel diaries I found from my “Grand Tour” across Europe after graduating from university. This description of our sightseeing whirlwind through Germany is typical. It makes me grateful I've adopted a more leisurely European style of travel in my maturity; it sounds quite exhausting.

These reflections on the recently deceased Stan Musial, “baseball’s perfect knight”, still resonate. We need gracious heroes now even more than we did when I wrote this. Stan is a part of my St. Louis childhood, and this time period saw me giving my still-new husband a proper, in-depth introduction to my home town. We almost drowned him in Americana. I was proud of the way he survived. My introduction to the new, meanwhile, came in Iceland. In this article I desperately tried to evoke the majesty of the Icelandic landscape

The article that captures the most memorable thing in this time period, however, is this piece on the 2012 Olympics. After all the bitching, moaning and generally low expectations, the English rose to the occasion and delivered something extraordinary.


THE FIFTH CENTURY
The “real’ world and the news agenda made a brief appearance in this hundred articles, as I happened to be in St. Louis when race-based tensions brought the disapproving eyes of the world down on my home town. I felt the need to write an impassioned rebuttal to misconceptions about the Ferguson situation.

The most memorable articles in this century, however, were all centred around my 50th birthday, which sparked several bucket-list worthy trips. I wrote about a truly extraordinary day of wine tasting around Mount Etna, ending with words that I hope captured the emotion of the day. If I could be any happier, it came floating over the coral reefs of the Maldives, where I truly did find heaven on earth.

My most popular article of this hundred amongst my readers, however, was clearly my reflections on turning 50. My five lessons for a life well-lived seemed to resonate. Indeed, looking back on the article from my 60th birthday I didn’t bother to do another. I would have just written the same things.

THE SIXTH CENTURY
As a marketer I understand search engine optimisation and strategies for promoting content on the internet. But, fact is, sometimes things “go viral” with no explanation. This review of a family-run B&B wasn’t exceptional, nor was our stay there, but for some reason it’s one of the most-read articles I’ve ever published, still getting hits years after the B&B closed. Go figure. 

My husband’s 60th birthday dominated this time period, and the best stories accompany the event. My article on the Gascony Cooking School captured the excitement of a residential culinary programme at the heart of one of the world’s great food cultures. A trip to Germany later in the year brought us face-to-face with both horror and beauty in Nuremberg.

We turned our visit to nearby Munich into a quest to visit all its best beer gardens, which produced this fabulous guide. For its continuing usefulness, this is my favourite article of the century.

THE SEVENTH CENTURY
These articles cover two years between the Augusts of 2016 and 2018. The best story in the lot ... the one I'm still telling at dinner parties today ... was undoubtably the royal wedding of Prince Harry to Northwestern University graduate Meghan Markle. I organised our UK alumni club to cheer our fellow Wildcat on from a position along the Windsor Castle Long Walk. I was also the official press spokesperson for the University on the day, getting my 15 minutes of fame (or a bit less) live on CBS’ news coverage. I did my best in the article to capture the rare excitement of the day.

As fine dining became a bit less common in my life, I added variety to the blog with more music and theatre reviews. There were two memorable ones here, as I wrote about the emotional impact of hearing Mozart’s requiem performed within the context of a mass for the first time and my introduction to the musical Hamilton, which I thought was positively Shakespearean.

Holidays, naturally, got plenty of coverage, and as the blog marked its 10-year anniversary it became ever more dominated by travel writing. My most treasured memory in this set is a description of my first time sport fishing (off the coast of Puerto Rico). We'd also done a leisurely wander around Denmark for a summer holiday, with this piece on the charms of Skagen being the most evocative of the nine articles I wrote from that trip. Meanwhile in Switzerland, I contemplated immigration patterns and their effects on history as I travelled back to the tiny village some of my ancestors left to come to America.

THE EIGHTH CENTURY
I'm filled with bittersweet nostalgia as I re-read this piece on the parts of my American DNA that make me proudest. I wrote it on the 20th anniversary of moving permanently to England, and I'm not sure I could write with such confidence or optimism today. I was clearly feeling philosophical, and a bit irritated with the English, in this time period as I also wrote an impassioned response to everyone in my new home country who detests Halloween as a tacky American import. The English aren't all anti-American, however. This set of articles also saw American baseball come to London for the first time, which I chronicled with glee.

Japan dominated my travel writing with 19 articles from an epic trip in the autumn of 2019. This review of a luxurious inn in the hills above Kyoto is my favourite. There was more luxury a few months later as a cancelled flight and following my mother's rules of travel landed us in one of the grandest hotels of our lives for one night in Antigua. There were also simple joys to be savoured on an oyster boat off the coast of Croatia. And, proving that travel can have a serious side, I wrote what I thought was a moving piece on the emotional impact of the WWI sites in the Somme.

It was a good thing that the start of this period had been so busy, because COVID lockdown suffocated everything at the end of this century of articles. Though the pace of blogging slowed down with less source material, I did find things to write about. This piece on life in lockdown has to be my favourite of the century, as it captures a unique time in our lives that, hopefully, will never be repeated.

THE NINTH CENTURY
The COVID pandemic continued through this next hundred articles, and got lots more attention from me as it stretched on. I pondered how, if you could stay healthy, age made people more resilient to the side-effects of the modern plague, and learned travel lessons from a pandemic that just wouldn't go away. There was good with the bad: social distancing guidelines forced Longborough to come up with creative solutions that made for the most emotionally moving performance of a Wagner opera I'd ever seen.

Perhaps triggered by lockdown, there's a nostalgia to many of the articles from this period. Travelling to St. Louis for my high school reunion had me appreciating the quiet beauty of old friendships, while my university football team showing up to play in Dublin sparked this love letter to Northwestern Wildcats on and off the field.

The piece I love the most, however, is my passionate defence of the British monarchy on Elizabeth II's jubilee. Not only does it capture a magical event I'll never see again in my lifetime, but I use it regularly to educate young people who are quick to write off the value of this ancient institution.  



APPROACHING MY PERSONAL MILLENNIUM
By the time I wrote my 900th article in March of 2023 the end of full-time corporate employment was in sight. (Though it wouldn't happen for another eight months.) Corporate hospitality and executive perks would no longer offer fuel for my writing. I did have one last moment of glory, however, as an empty hotel room at a conference I was managing gave me the chance to experience being a guest at Pennyhill Park and Spa.   

I love how my husband's interests have stretched me beyond my travel comfort zone. I doubt I would ever have discovered the awesome wonder of the Norwegian fjords or realised that battlefield tourism can be fun (in this case, full days touring the Napoleonic battlefields of Salamanca and Vitoria), without him. But as my 60th birthday approached I knew I wanted to return to my travel "safe space", thus these 100 articles are awash with Italian travel reportage.  There's falling in love with Naples, tips for surviving a heat wave in Tuscany, avoiding Venice crowds by heading to the outer islands, and an 11-article series on my adventures in Sicily. Once I wrapped my travels for 2024 I updated the indexes on the blog: if you view it through a desktop browser so you can see the three-column layout, you'll now see headlines of, and links to, 69 different Italian articles in indexes on the left. 

It's hard to pick a favourite from this 100 so studded with magical memories. Amusingly, the one that gets my vote is actually a bad experience. I normally stick to positive reviews when I can, but the Verona Opera Festival's dreadful reimagining of Aida in space needed to be ripped apart. Writing it gave me an appreciation for those reviewers who become famous for tearing things down; you can have much more fun with words being mean. But I doubt I'll become a regular in this style. 


And that's how I got to 1,000. Creating this blog has been a consistent source of joy ... and, I hope, kept my writing fresh and less corporate ... for almost 18 years. Yes, there are times when keeping up has felt a bit more like a chore than entertainment. As the years pass I realise there are things I probably should have written about but didn't, no doubt because I was too busy with other things.

If I keep going at this pace I'll publish my 2,000th article when I'm 78. But it's hard to imagine having that much to write about in retirement, especially after the early years of heavy travel when we settle down to a quiet life. Hopefully I won't end up a correspondent of medical treatments and old age complaints. But, frankly, if I'm still healthy and writing regularly as I approach 80 I'll be happy. If anyone reads me, great. But I'll continue to do this for myself.

Here's to the next 1,000.

Tuesday, 25 March 2025

These two castles in South Wales bring the past to glorious life

If you want proof that time really does heal, look to Welsh castles. Once a deeply-resented symbol of an invader’s power over a subjugated land, they are now the jewel in the crown of the nation’s tourist industry and a source of intense national pride.

The first thing you notice when you come through the gates of Cardiff Castle is probably not the tower on a hill, built by Norman thugs to consolidate their incursions, or the re-constructed Roman gate next to it, but a big, red dragon. It’s the same one that dominates today’s Welsh flag, here brought gloriously to three-dimensional life. Conquerors have come and gone, but the native Welsh came out on top.
You can easily satisfy all of your medieval castle fantasies with a couple of stops on a road trip to Cardiff. We explored Cardiff Castle and Chepstow Castle this trip. The eager castellophile could easily add in Castell Coch, which essentially functions as a small “summer house” for Cardiff. (Here’s an article on that site from an earlier visit.) But if you only have time for two … or if, like my husband, you have limits to how much Victorian Gothic you can stand … following our route for this trip makes sense.

Cardiff Castle sits right in the centre of the capital and has two primary draws. First, it’s a great demonstration of how castles evolved in use and appearance over time. Second, it’s one of the best examples of Victorian gothic in the country.

If you want to learn about the history of castle building, you can start with the reconstruction of the Roman Gate. Then clamber up the big hill, or “motte” to have a look at the Norman playbook. From up there you have a great viewpoint of the massive “bailey”, the area encircled by walls that would have been the functional space for everything from military exercises to craftspeople’s workshops. And you can see how, as castles became less defensive and more residential, their owners built against the outer walls.

It was the potential of those buildings that set John Patrick Crichton-Stuart, 3rd Marquess of Bute, dreaming in the 1860s. The outrageously wealthy young man, whose family had grown rich on Welsh coal and built Cardiff into their exporting hub, couldn’t help but be impressed when he attended the House of Lords in the brand new Palace of Westminster. It had just risen from a fire in the latest trendy style: a fairy-tale gothic that architects believed to be truly British. The Marquess thought he’d bring the style home and hired architect William Burgess. The two men would work together to realise the medieval fever dream that is Cardiff. As well as the summer house at the Castell Coch.

The duo’s vision of the Middle Ages is lavish: jewel tones, lush fabrics, ornate wood carving, plenty of gilding. You can see this best in the banqueting hall. A wooden roof encrusted with ornamental beams is held aloft by colourful angels, hair flowing and clothes picked out in eye-watering colours. Nothing in this version of history comes in pastels or neutrals. On the walls below you can follow the story of Robert of Gloucester, an early owner of the place. He was the illegitimate son of King Henry I, therefore half brother to the Matilda who scrabbled with her cousin Stephen over the throne in a civil war so nasty contemporary chroniclers described it as a time when “Christ and his saints slept.”

Robert was perhaps the only historical figure to emerge from this time period with an honourable reputation intact, and his exploits provide suitably chivalric images. An exuberant fireplace adds to the story; it’s a besieged castle sticking out into the room, with Matilda up top awaiting rescue. It’s pure Disney. And this isn’t the only place the fantasy pokes beyond the walls: animals around the door frames stick fins, feathers and paws beyond the paint, enhancing the illusion.
An entry hall, dining room and substantial library are all in this exuberant style. The most eye-popping room along this tour route, however, takes us in a completely different direction … as if one of those medieval knights took a detour through Islamic Spain on the way home from the Crusades and decided he needed a place to remind him of his travels. The Arab Room features a carved ceiling that could have come right out of the Alhambra Palace, except this one is gilded in 24 carat gold. The walls are marble. The windows have coloured marbles embedded in them to send splinters of coloured light across the interiors. The fireplace looks more like a mosque’s alcove for holding the Koran than a practical utility. It’s spectacular. 

The other best bits of the interiors require a separate tour. (You could see it all under one ticket when I was last here, but that was a long time ago.) If you have time, it’s worth the extra expense to book an escorted tour into the tower, which gives you a look at the bedrooms and the unusual roof garden, which is a crazy decorative mash-up of Ancient Rome, the Middle Ages and Victorian ironwork. It’s essentially a tiny cloister garden, with covered walkways on four side and an opening to the sky in the centre. 

Any past resident of Chepstow Castle, if somehow transported to one of Burgess and Bute’s interiors, would probably think they’d been whisked to another world rather than any spot in their own gothic reality. Yes, medieval castles had some nice interiors, but in a time before artificial lighting and chemically enhanced paints they never would have been this bright. Besides, the original buildings were less palaces and more easily-defended admin offices with sleeping quarters.

If Cardiff if the fantasy, Chepstow is the reality. 
The setting is one of the prettiest in the UK. The castle climbs up cliffs that rise above the River Wye, just before the water disappears into heavy forest. These days Chepstow is a romantic ruin, but there’s enough here to help you imagine past glories. Here there are two baileys, each with its own great hall and additional buildings. It’s almost all without roofs these days, but you can scramble up stairs, walk along wall tops and take in magnificent views.

The upper bailey is closely associated with William Marshall, one of the great heroes of the English Middle Ages, and his powerful heiress wife Isabel de Clare. The castle, in fact, came with her as part of her dowry. But unlike so many of the arranged marriages of this time period, this was a real love match. So enduring is their story it became the foundation of the film A Knight’s Tale.

Four generations later building attention moved to the lower bailey, where the couple’s great grandson Baron Bigod turned the complex into a bit of a party palace. Not only did he put in a new great hall … even though there was a perfectly good one just up the hill … but he built a substantial complex of kitchens, serving areas and wine cellars. The latter could be stocked through a hatch directly over the river. None of the explanatory material says so, but I have a hunch that building just this little bit further down the slope made for warmer, more comfortable accommodations.

Chepstow was in continuous use for another six centuries. Its decay is fairly modern; It wasn’t until very late in the 17th century that the owners of the time abandoned it. It didn’t stay forgotten for long, however. By the end of the next century, romantic ruins were all the rage. The ruins just upriver at Tintern Abbey got the superstar treatment by artist JMW Turner. So did Chepstow. Suddenly, the Wye River ruins were on every fashionable Regency traveller’s bucket list.

Chepstow probably isn’t as famous these days as it was in those giddy times, but it’s still a star in South Wales’ firmament. It’s a logical stop, as we did it, on a trip to and from Cardiff, but it’s also an easy day trip from London and environs thanks to its location just minutes off the motorway. The castle and its surrounding town feel small and isolated, but they’re right next to the old Severn Bridge. A pleasant day trip would start here, then drive up to the equally romantic Tintern Abbey, before winding along the Wye through the Forest of Dean.

Tuesday, 18 March 2025

Rejecting the received wisdom, we enjoy Cardiff for rugby but don’t need to do it again

We have a tradition in the Bencard household that whoever is celebrating a milestone birthday gets to make the call on all of the travel for that year. I’ve written about it before; this is our second time through the cycle and I finished up my year in December. My husband now controls 2025, and the first celebratory destination of the year was Cardiff.

The Welsh capital is a nice enough place but without context you might be surprised it turns up on a big birthday bucket list. That context is rugby.

Rugby is the national sport in this mighty little country. It’s significant in other parts of the UK, but only in Wales does it eclipse all others with a dominance only otherwise seen in New Zealand. Unsurprisingly, therefore, the national stadium in Cardiff is legendary, and the annual 6 Nations match-up between England and Wales … played here every other year in rotation with England’s home ground at Twickenham … is one of the hardest tickets in rugby to get.

Tickets are always available for those with the cash and the desire to find a way, of course. Which is why this year we took our second trip with England Rugby Travel. This time we weren’t flying half way around the world to Japan, but driving two hours up the M4.

Was it worth it?

Like any premium experience, value comes down to your passions. If you aren’t a keen fan then it’s a lot of money for two nights in a generic corporate hotel (the Radisson Blu), an evening event with a couple of drinks and a styrofoam box with a burger and chips, and match seats less that 20 rows from the roof, behind the try line. (That would be “end zone” for my American readers.)

The reality, however, is that there’s no practical way to get tickets to this match as an outsider other than hospitality packages. And the overall experience comes with a lot of intangibles. The pre-game event brought us face-to-face with rugby legends telling tales of the past, analysing team performance, and making predictions for the next day. As a relative newcomer to the sport I knew who the people were and was entertained. (They’re all amusing, but emcee Martin Bayfield could have been a stand up comic.) If you grew up a rugby fan in England, however, as my husband did, then the guys on stage were legends, taking the night from amusing to magical.

There was more magic on the streets the next day with the Cardiff pre-game experience. You can enjoy this without a premium package. In fact, I’m fairly sure that thousands amongst the crowd didn’t have tickets to the game at all, but came into town for the atmosphere and would be watching play in one of the local pubs instead.

Unusually, Cardiff’s Principality Stadium is tightly-wedged into the centre of town. There’s no fan zone behind the ticket barriers, rather an approximately 20 square-block area jammed with bars and restaurants on the outside. That entire town centre becomes a fan zone for hours before and after the game. While I’ve never seen anything like it in Europe, it’s remarkably similar to the American college football scene at the big state universities. Good-natured fans stroll the streets, bands set up in squares to entertain the crowds, vendors sell patriotic fashion and face painting.

We faced two challenges. Once you get within three hours of kick-off there’s no chance of sitting down anywhere, and the queues for beer make it incredibly unlikely you’re getting a drink. In the latter it reminded me a great deal of Oktoberfest in Munich, walking for hours around the world’s most famous beer festival, thirsty.

We’d been lucky enough to get seats at the Owain Glyndwr pub five hours before kick-off; probably the last two seats in the place, sharing a table with others. We admired the two-pint glasses around us and should have taken the hint. After nursing our first pints for an hour … we were going to be drinking all day, so were pacing ourselves … we attempted another round and had to give up. The crowd at the bar was 30-people long, five people deep, and I barely moved in the 20 minutes I stood in the queue. I gave up and returned to our table, where we sat drinkless until an hour before the stadium gates opened. Clearly we should have purchased enough first time round for the duration.

We spent an hour walking through town drinking in atmosphere instead. It was fun, but in many streets we were facing the kind of body-to-body crowding that makes you think of news reports of unfortunates falling over and being trampled to death. Queues at all the other pubs we passed were equally mad; we were clearly not getting another drink in hand until we got into the stadium. Thus we were amongst the first through the turnstiles.

Here’s the conundrum: Getting in this early gets you easy access to food, drinks, seats and toilets, but there’s no atmosphere for at least the first hour and, unlike Twickenham, there are no screens showing the earlier match. Maybe we’re just old farts, but we were happy to forgo the buzz for our own comfort. Perhaps locals know how to get seats and drinks: clearly most fans don’t bother getting to the stadium until about 40 minutes pre-match, when there’s a sudden surge to fill seats for the pre-game show.

It’s here that I thought the Welsh really triumphed. From the flag unfurling to the bands, the lights and jets of flame, the DJ and the traditional male choir: the pre-game show here is a triumph. The Welsh reputation for singing is well-deserved and the hymns thundered.

We expected the local voices to add to the atmosphere throughout the game. When the roof is closed, as it was for our match, the crowd is often called the 16th man, giving the home team an intimidating advantage. There was no such energy on display. I suppose I shouldn’t have been surprised, given that the home fans were sitting on a 16-game losing streak and then had to watch a 68-14 pounding.
Post-match crowds on the streets outside remained an uncomfortably tight sea of bodies. We retreated to our hotel, changed clothes and ventured out for a later dinner reservation at The Ivy Cardiff. We were incredibly thankful to the friend who had warned us that reservations were essential, or we wouldn’t get dinner following a match. After a day of crowds and queues we were grateful for table service and a quieter atmosphere.

So my verdict on Wales for away games will disappoint my Welsh friends. I am glad I ticked the box, but I wouldn’t want to do it again. At least not without a local who knows the tricks to negotiating the crowds better. I far prefer the away-game experience in Rome, even though the stadium is a tram line away from town.