(Assuming, of course, good dining companions. Which I had. No gourmet delicacy can compensate for boring people.)
Which brings us to Pied a Terre, my latest star in London's Michelin firmament. Two stars, actually. Chef Shane Osborn is that rarest of things in this town: a star-winning chef without a celebrity profile. Google him, and you'll see the similarly named state treasurer of Nebraska. Yet chef deserves some fame, primarily for being the first Australian ever to win a Michelin star. Also for keeping Pied a Terre going, and winning its second star, after its previous wunderkind walked out to launch his own place. That was Tom Aikens (see 30.3.08) and, at least based on my experiences, Osborn outcooks his old boss.
We started with a beautiful little rectangular amuse bouche platter arranged with three bite-sized delights: foie gras spread between thin seeded wafers, squash mousse in a shot glass, deep fried gnocchi. It seems that this was served even to those ordering the reasonably-priced set menu. (Two courses for £23.50.) We, however, were a little more celebratory, picking three courses off the wide-ranging a la carte list.
The amuse bouche came after we'd ordered, thus surprising me with my triple crown of foie gras. My starter was pan fried foie gras with a very thin lasagna sheet folded beneath it, topped with a rich consume and some crunchy fried onions to add texture. Had I been forced to leave at that point, I would have been well satisfied. Instead I ratcheted up the pleasure with Anjou pigeon, perfectly cooked so that it was moist and full of flavour, presented with the confit pigeon leg stuffed with foie gras. One of my colleagues is vegetarian and had one of the prettiest plates of greenery I've ever seen. But I was reveling in carnivorous delights and didn't feel the need for the healthy stuff. The rest of the week is for Weight Watchers no-point vegetable soup.
I will admit, however, that my taste buds were well drowned with rich flavours when that first dessert came. It was some sort of citrussy mousse (perhaps passion fruit), with just the right balance of lightness and tartness to cleanse the palate.
Good thing, too. Because chocolate was coming. A dense, flourless slice clearly made with some excellent quality dark chocolate. A dollop of vanilla cream and another of stout-flavoured (yes, as in Guinness) ice cream accompanied the main event. The stout ice cream was a revelation. Not a surprise, mind you, to anyone who's drunk the real stuff in Dublin and realised that there's a creamy, almost chocolatey undertone to a pint. Made into ice cream and paired with proper chocolate? Ben and Jerry, you're missing something here. And as if things weren't good enough, the plate was decorated with caramelised macadamia nuts. Heaven. In fact, one of the best desserts I've had anywhere in a very long time.
But that was only the second round of sweets. On came the petit fours, an artistic arrangement of tiny candies and biscuits arranged on a multi-tiered piece of modern art. No, we couldn't eat them all. Yes, I wish I could have swept them into my handbag for later.
In food, Pied a Terre was everything a Michelin starred place should be. Great ingredients, perfectly prepared and imaginatively conceived. Add to that great service and a cozy atmosphere. The place only has 40 covers in two small dining rooms. It's practically a dinner party.
Thank you, Mr. Osborn. I suppose we shouldn't be surprised that, given the competitive nature of Australians, the man has conquered the foodie heights. I'll never take a young restaurant worker from Oz for granted again. He could have a meal like this up his sleeve.
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