To give is proverbially better than to receive. It's a point proven in abundance on a Hampshire Hawk Walk, both because it's a unique experience for tough-to-buy-for loved ones, and because the giver has almost as much fun as the celebrant.
This is a one-on-one experience, as opposed to the small group outings that seem to be more common when you start searching for falconry experiences. We met falconer Anita Ebdon and her Harris hawk, Guinness, on the front lawns of Chawton House, a stately home in North Hampshire. From its gardens we set off for a 90-minute ramble around adjacent meadows and woods. The birthday boy got to don a falconer’s glove straight away, and from then on Guinness was landing on his outstretched arm rather than Anita’s.
We’ve seen a fair number of birds of prey exhibitions, from the lavish spectacular at Warwick Castle to humble demonstrations at our local horse trials. And while we’ve enjoyed them all, when you strip them back to their basics they feature birds flying back and forth in a defined space. A Hawk Walk is totally different.
Over the course of about a mile, we walked and Guinness followed. At regular intervals, Anita dipped into the bag at her hip and extracted a tasty morsel of raw rabbit meat which she then balanced on the side of my husband’s outstretched, gloved fist. Within a few seconds, Guinness would come swooping in for his snack. The further we got into the walk, the more comfortable the hawk became with my husband, so that near the end he wouldn’t just eat and run, but stay on Piers’ arm a bit as we walked. The technique’s not so different from walking a dog off-lead, but the birds are a good deal more majestic. (Sorry, Bruno.)
Alternating between meadow and forest is an inspired combination. When you’re in the meadow, the hawk retreats to the trees at its edge, his exceptional vision never losing you even though you don’t have a clue where he’s gone. when his snack comes out, though, you’re treated to long, majestic and slightly unnerving glides as he plunges towards his objective. If you ever wondered why most fighter jets are named after birds of prey, this will resolve the question for you.
The woodlands were even better. Under the canopy Guinness stayed closer to us, and was easier for us to pick out as the jingle of his bell wasn’t lost on the wind. He’d move tree to tree, always keeping us in sight. Again, when the treat came out he’d make his move, now showing off precision flying as he wove through branches and trunks at high speed, approaching at a much lower level than out in the open air. Several times, as the trailing photographer, I had the thrill of him skimming within inches of me, a blur of chocolate and sienna feathers and a blast of cool air.
The visceral excitement of getting that close to a top predator at work is accompanied by informative commentary from Anita who, as you’d expect, is a font of knowledge on her own Harris hawks (Guinness is one of a team of seven), as well as other birds of prey, the history of falconry, and the countryside through which you’re walking. She even helped us spot a rare Chalk Hill Blue butterfly flitting through the dancing grasses of the late summer meadow. Impossible to photograph, delightful to watch.
Anita’s home base means you can combine your Hawk Walk with other local attractions for a rich day in the countryside. Chawton might have rung a bell for the literary amongst you; the manor house was the home of Jane Austen’s brother and she lived the last nine (and most productive) years of her life in a cottage at the centre of the tiny village at the estate’s edge. Both the manor and Jane’s house are open to the public. Even if you’re not a Jane Austen fan, you’ll be fascinated to observe her worshippers (aka Janeites) who treat their house visit like the culmination of a holy pilgrimage. If nature is more your thing, a few miles further on lovely country lanes takes you to Gilbert White’s house. The 18th century parson is considered England’s first ecologist and his Natural History of Hampshire shaped many scientists to come, including Darwin. His lovely, tastefully restored home sits in protected meadows and woodlands open to walkers, and the adjacent village of Selborne is one of Hampshire’s prettiest.
We opted for a pre-walk Sunday lunch at the Rose and Crown in Upper Farringdon. Yet another example of the kind of gastropub we wish someone would transform one of our four locals into. Charming historic exterior, interiors maintaining that dark wood, old-world feel but elevated with tasteful touches of modern design, mellow music at a background volume, an interesting and well-priced wine list and a menu that celebrates local producers and seasonal choices. It being a Sunday, the menu was all about the traditional roast, with generous slices of succulent meats, rich gravy and Yorkshire puddings the size of a baby’s head.
Anita’s Hawk Walks start at £90 for the participant and one companion, with additional observers possible for an added fee. Find out more here. A word of warning: because these are individual walks and she only does three a day, she books up well in advance. If you want to match your experience to a particular date, planning three to six months in advance would be sensible.
To see the Instagram reel I put together from the walk, follow this link.
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