The beach is grand, the town charming, but come to Saundersfoot to eat

Saundersfoot is another of Pembrokeshire’s swimming-friendly beaches, about a half-mile stretch of smooth sand where more than 100 metres are exposed at low tide. Unlike Tenby, most of the village is at sea level, allowing visitors to step straight from pub or B&B onto the shore. It’s much smaller than its walled, colourful neighbour, but livelier than tiny Manorbier. One of the participants in the annual girls’ trip spent summer holidays here growing up and argues compellingly that it’s Britain’s most perfect family beach resort.

I’m convinced; something about it reminds me of my own childhood bolthole of Lauderdale-by-the-Sea. Though the idyllically child-friendly nature of Saundersfoot would be an argument against me staying there in school holidays. Whatever the time of year, however, if I were in the area I’d be making reservations at Coast. Holder of a Michelin plate and clearly in pursuit of a star, this modern restaurant with spectacular views is a destination as magnificent as the coastline around it. 

Coast is at the far end of Saundersfoot's sandy expanse, easily accessible from town if you walk by beach at low tide but on the outskirts and down twisting farm lanes if you go by road. (Head for the car park at Coppet Hall Beach for both the restaurant and less crowded access to the shore.) The elegant wood and glass building stands alone in an otherwise sylvan seaside, angled to catch the best views of its eponymous coast. Inside, tables are arranged on two narrow terraces, as if every table were a theatre box there to watch the show at sea. For those unfortunate enough to be sitting with their backs to the outdoors, mirrors run along the back walls reflecting the shore. Instead of a stage curtain there’s a wall of glass a story and a half high, with the dining space broken up by the trunks and branches of trees that have been brought inside … as if the forest on the hills behind you had kept marching to the shore. It’s simple, elegant and in tune with the world around it.

Coast also has some of the cleverest lighting I’ve seen in a restaurant, clearly purpose-designed for its current use. There are targeted spots over every table, creating a pool of bright, direct light to tabletops while the other lighting is low. Not only does that make it easy to see and photograph your food, but as the sun sets and those trees cast interesting shadows, each table seems to float in its own private bubble.

Head Chef Fred Clapperton earned a Michelin star for the Clock House in Surrey and was wooed to this idyllic location to do the same, arriving just as the Covid pandemic began. One assumes the irregularity of recent times is the only thing holding back his award, since flavours, presentation, service and wine pairings were all on par with any one-starred Michelin restaurant around London. Prices, however, were not. A seven-course tasting menu at £78, with a five-glass wine flight at £50 and an additional cheese course at £16 is significantly less than prices in the Southeast of England. 

As you’d expect, the menu was seasonal, drew heavily from the local larder and reflected the spectacular seaside location. The amuse bouche almost stole the whole show ... seaweed "chips" that had the texture and breadiness of the thick-cut potato kind but with a delightful taste of the sea, served on a bowl of sea pebbles. Most of the table, however, chose the climactic local beef in IPA sauce as the favourite dish of the night. It came with a charred cabbage wedge, an elegant curl of beef tongue and a quenelle of salty anchovy puree and, with Trinity Hill's merlot-heavy red blend to wash it down, was comfort food elevated to the heavens.

In between came a procession of small but exquisite dishes calculated to give you a few succulent mouthfuls for each course, so you could end the night satisfied but not stuffed. Turning the bread that's normally on the side into its own course was a clever twist, with today's fresh slices accompanying yesterday's toasted crouton in a broth rich with onions and bone marrow. Neither oysters nor salmon will ever make my top favourites list but they came here in a jewel-like display and were united by a delicious cucumber sauce.

The lamb kofta was another of my favourites and a perfect example of how simple dishes can be deconstructed and re-invented successfully. The flavours were similar to a lamb skewer and babaganoush from a humble mezze platter, but refined and concentrated, then translated into a delicate plate strewn with micro-herbs. Next, rather surprisingly, came more fish as we went on to cod with an even more surprising accompaniment of Black Bomber. This is one of Wales' most famous cheeses, similar to cheddar, and the pairing flew against the usual high cuisine aversion to combining fish and cheese. I suspect, like the kofta, they were going for another homey-to-gourmet transformation here, this time inspired by seafood pie. The plate also featured a baby leek, brown shrimp and a slice of pickled cucumber. Oddly, the last was my favourite thing on the plate and the combined bite that featured it was my best taste of this dish. In a parade of loveliness, however, this is the one I could have easily lived without.

Next came a pre-desert of lemongrass and coconut, flavoured with sea buckthorn and presented like a mousse with a dollop of meringue on top. While the consistency was solid the flavours were more like a tropical drink, making it a great palate cleanser to get to the main dessert of hibiscus, blackberry and apples. The plate was an artistic combination of ice cream, mousse, shortbread and fresh fruit that tasted wonderful but made you feel quite virtuous. It certainly seemed light and healthy. 

We opted to end with the cheese and split two servings across the four of us. All were local, all delicious, and another reminder that the UK's rich pasture lands put us on par with anywhere in France when it comes to fromagerie. By the time we left a full moon was hanging over the sea and Head Chef Clapperton came out of the kitchen to chat; an even better end to the meal than the cheese. I suspect we'll be seeing much more of him.

It's worth noting that Coast is currently closed Sunday - Tuesday, but it shares a building with a coffee shop and cafe that's clearly popular with beach users. While its seating area doesn't have a sea view, when Coast is closed you can take your purchases and eat and drink at tables on their balcony, taking in that beguiling view without the fine dining price tag.

If Coast isn't your style, or you're looking for a casual, inexpensive alternative in Saundersfoot, head to The Old Chemist Inn on The Strand. We wouldn't have found this gem without our companion's local knowledge, since a look down The Strand from the village's main car park would suggest the dead-end lane is entirely residential. Not so! The barely signposted pub is wedged into a row of houses and backs directly onto the beach. Compared to Coast's instagrammable high design, this is a battered wooden shack that probably hasn't seen much renovation in decades. But the bar is admirably large, dogs are welcome and lounge everywhere, and there are plenty of places to hang up wetsuits to dry while swimmers and surfers quench a thirst. The real glory of The Chemist, of course, is the location, with a yard full of picnic tables directly next to the beach and the ability to take your drinks right out onto the sands once you decant them into provided plastic cups.