I fell in love with Dartmoor the first time I drove up to its desolate heights on a blustery January day in 2000. After that, at least once a year I'd throw Mr. Darcy, the spaniel, into the car and head for the only place in England that could match the vastness of the American wilderness. I always stayed at the Cherrybrook Hotel. Just after I created this blog, however, the place changed hands. Though I gave it a basic review (see 25.3.08), I didn't rave. Then, I didn't manage to get back to the moors for four years. I hadn't intentionally abandoned the place ... life just got a bit busy ... but I was worried. The new hosts didn't have the engaging charm of the originals, and the quality of the food had slipped badly. Though Cherrybrook remained on my "Some Great Places to Stay" list (scroll down the column at right) that was more for its stunning location, canine welcome and great price than for its excellence as a B&B.
The hotel has changed hands again since my 2008 visit, and I'm delighted to say that the new ownership has returned it fully to the place with which I fell in love. In fact, it might even be a little better.
Two mature couples, Dave and Judy and Pat and Marion, have down-shifted from busier lives nearer London for this self-described "life style choice" which allows them to live in this glorious spot while bringing a once-thriving business back from trouble. Part of that revival has involved massive investment into the building's infrastructure. Every room has been renovated, and that's not just redecorating. Woodworm meant that some of the rooms (including ours, the generously-sized Beardown, in the front of the house with dramatic views) were torn down to their planks and rebuilt. You sense the depth of the work in the quiet and the warmth of your room; this place is solid, the doors are all new and the heating system is fierce. All the bathrooms are new, with power showers giving a boost to the once-lazy water pressure. There's free WiFi these days, and modern TVs that include iPod docs and all the Freeview channels.
The decor has been updated, too, but they haven't given in to the temptation to be something they're not. No uber-trendy faux stone, mushroom and taupe colour schemes or Asiatic decor here. It's solidly traditional English B&B, with unstained oak furniture in the bedroom
s, dark woods and curio cabinets in the dining room, watercolours and prints of the local area on the walls and the comforting tea tray in the corner. The bar is still in what was originally the stables, the rough stone walls, painted white, giving it a rathskeller feel. Sadly the chairs in the bar are still not the most comfortable, and the renovation does nothing to fix what has always been the Cherrybrook's one great disadvantage: There's no cozy, comfortable public space to just hang out in front of a fire for hours. But you can live without it.
The point of a Dartmoor holiday is generally to be outside, and energetic days typically send people to bed after dinner rather than leave them hanging about in the lounge. (Therefore make an effort to book one of the larger rooms, so you have lounging space of your own.) What has improved is the barman: Dave has returned to the geniality of the host of my first visits, chatting with all the guests, bringing people together and serving all the expected stuff plus a good range of local ales and a local cider.
The food is back on form, too, delivering a good variety of options, hearty and well prepared. A starter of a grilled portobello mushroom with goat's cheese and a sharp onion relish stands out, as did the guinea fowl breast wrapped in bacon and the decadent "crunchy pie" (chocolate, dried fruit and crumbled biscuit). I rather missed the serve-yourself fourth course of local cheeses, the South West of England producing some of the country's finest, which used to be one of the highlights of eating here. Dave said they used to do it, but most people passed and there was too much waste, so the local cheeses are now an option on the dessert menu. Three substantial courses for £25 will re-fuel you nicely after any moor walking without breaking the bank. There's a wine list with an equally pleasing variety, most prices ranging from £15-£20. This is all good news, because most guests will want to dine in. Dartmoor's roads make for challenging driving, which you probably won't want to attempt after dark. As you'd expect, you wake up to the classic full English breakfast.
Cherrybrook continues to welcome dogs, at no extra charge. You'll even find a water bowl and a dish of dog biscuits waiting in your room. A nice touch. The new management has improved the gardens, so on your shorter dog walks you can appreciate a little stream with banks planted with flowers, new floral beds or a meadow with paths mown through the grasses. At this time of year, the dry stone walls of the drive are lined by hundreds of bright daffodils. For longer walks, of course, the moor is all around you. The best quality of the Cherrybrook remains its location. Though softened by those surrounding gardens, it's in the centre of the high moor, just northwest of where the two main trans-moor roads cross as Two Bridges. Two minutes from the front door and you're walking through the wilderness, alone but for sheep, the occasional wild pony and your thoughts. Or, if you're less energetic, you can appreciate the rolling hills and rocky tors from your bedroom window.
Prices vary depending on package and season. We paid £94 a night for dinner, bed and breakfast for the three of us. (Mum, Dad, Spaniel.) Which is undoubtably the bargain option on my "Special Places to Stay List".
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